Plato’s Atlantis was McQueen’s final collection before his death in 2010. This collection is heavily inspired by Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution and global warming. The name of this collection came from the theory of a man named Plato wrote a dialogue where powerful empire which ruled other Islands known as Atlantis structured in rings separated by water and land. which sunk into the Atlantic ocean as a result of earthquakes and floods following a waged war between Atlantis and one of its colonies. This collection links to global warming and Darwin’s process of evolution but in reverse. McQueen predicted a future where ‘ice caps would melt…the waters would rise and… life on earth would have to evolve to live beneath the sea once more or perish’.
The theory of Plato’s Atlantis is an interest source for me in really finding out about Alexander McQueen and his inspiration as it shows his fascination with the natural world, what could have been, and what the world can be. This collection really showed McQueen’s deep, dark thoughts about life and the fact that he did things that many designers may be afraid to promote which is why he is one of the most successful designers of his error because although his collections were questionable there is always something about it that fascinates the mind.

This image is of an alien character from Ridley Scott’s science fiction horror film Alien (1980) created by H.R. Giger. As you can see it is very unworldly and quite intimidating. The alien has a very solid body as if it is made out of metal, with a really distinctive ribbed body and sharp back bone looking antennas. The big veins in the neck almost look as if the alien is straining as you can see from its face that it looks angry and almost disturbed. The fact that the alien is centred right in the middle of the frame and touches each end shows how huge this alien really is, making it even more terrifying. The sideways view of the alien gives me a good but frightening idea of how it would look if it was standing forward.
Giger describes ‘My pictures are about things I like, things I hate or things I am afraid about.’ making it clear that this alien may be one of the things that he is afraid of, but despite this fear he creates them, possibly in order for him to face it. Giger continues to say ‘I like very much the combination of machine and human and biological things’. Suggesting that he is all about what the future is going to be like and the scientific possibilities of how mankind and machinery can combine or work together in order to make the world a more survivable place, which you can tell that McQueen really worked upon in his collection.
The fact that McQueen used a character from a film and transferred it into inspiration for his ‘Alien’ shoe collection is very clever as I can see that he really used every detail of this creature to his advantage, which successfully linked to each garment as an accessory which really helps complete the message and image of humans evolving back into the sea. The shoe is so in sync with the body and shape of the alien that if I was to work my fingers around the shoe and have one finger around the alien I would be able to feel where McQueen took each element of the shoe from.
In comparison to Giger’s ‘Alien’, Stan Winston’s ‘Predator’ is similar to Giger’s alien in terms of having human features as the alien has very human like hands and ribs whilst the predator has a human like body. You can also tell that both artists have a think for combining mankind with machine. Winston states “My feeling from reading the script was that the Predator had to be a real character, rather than a generic creature. He needed to be a very specific character — and that’s what we came up with.” This shows that this character was very important in bringing originality to the film as in many movies aliens and monsters always look quite similar. However, Winston wanted this monster to have a specific identity rather than an unknown identity. I believe that when you know what is coming it can be just as scary as the unknown.
Overall, this image is a really good example of how inspiration for fashion can derive from anything and anywhere, however it also shows that it takes a brave designer to use dark imagery to create a successful collection as well as a digitally fantastic runway show like how Alexander McQueen did.

Task 5&6 VR images

Throughout the course of the ‘Research and Communication Skills’ module, I have learnt a variety of ways in which to improve my essay writing skills and where to look to find relevant pieces of information as sources in my writing.

Primarily, I learnt early on in the RCS module how to reference texts and sources when putting them in my writing. Before this module I was unsure of the correct way in which to do this and was worried about the problems I could face for not referencing a source suitably. I found it particularly helpful that we didn’t just learn how to ‘Harvard reference’ a book, but also a website, photograph and newspaper articles. Harvard referencing was particularly helpful for task 1/2 when we had to integrate an image from a book, a photograph and an archive in to piece of writing. After learning how use Harvard referencing I was able to use it in my studio practice by referencing designers or artists work in my research file that I had used in my sketchbook.

Furthermore, I found the lecture about plagiarism and academic integrity in week 3 particularly interesting and opened my eyes to the severity of the problems that one could face within in the design world if an artist or designer’s work was copied too closely. Learning more about the UK Copyright Law will be of great use to me for all of my future work within design so that I can ensure my ideas are unprecedented. Furthermore, I will be able to use designers and artists work suitably as influences and inspirations for my own work without breaching the copyright laws.

The lecture and task in the fourth week was one of the most beneficial for me as it was very valuable for the background research of my projects in my studio practice. This task was to choose a particular designer’s collection and create a mood board and description of where the designer drew their inspiration from for that collection. After being shown in the lecture the images that inspired Anna Sui for her Spring 2018 collection, I was able to see how it wasn’t haphazard ideas or just other designer’s influence that inspired her collection but a large range of sources. As a result, I was able to broaden my own research and look at films, photography, illustrations and books rather than solely just a fashion designer’s work.

For the majority of the tasks during the RCS module I stayed on top of the work and did a task per week so I was never behind. However, towards the end of the module when my studio practice work became busier I struggled doing the tasks on time. In the future, I will ensure I do my tasks on time and not leave them for the following week as I struggled to find all the references and sources I wanted to find if I had to rush the tasks to get them done.

I have found this module very worthwhile as it allowed me to expand my knowledge and awareness of concerns within the world of design such as plagiarism and ethical issues. Moreover, it lay the foundations of how to research most beneficially by using all the sources available to you.

This is a print ad for Duncan Quinn suits which was considered to be the most sexist Advertisement in 2008.

The leading character has been made very clear in this picture: a well-dressed beast teasing or insulting a barely clothed woman. The way he uses his tie to fasten the lady while he is holding one end of the cloth like leading a pet. One netizen describes it as “Duncan Quinn depicted mobsters torturing female bodies”[3] besides, The correlation of the utilisation of black and white classic filter could mean it’s ‘common’ and ‘normal’ to do such a thing as sexism appears throughout the human history.

It’s obvious that the girl is lying on the car bonnet with ‘luring’ underwear. Suppose that it’s her own will to do so, but the hidden message of what that action means is loathsome. You wouldn’t deny how successful it communicates with the audience and the strong effect of this view. It may leave an incredible impression on some people and makes good selling for the clothing, alternatively, it left with a terrible impression on people and decreased the sales and profits, it is temporarily debatable.

Referring back to the title ‘sexist advertisement’, the way how the man handles with the girl is the most sensitive point of this poster. What sort of message do they want to propagate? Are they trying to prove whether the positive or the negative? Were they aware of the possible impacts on the following fashion, consumers as this brand has a relatively high position in the fashion world?

Before God we are all equally wise and equally foolish.

–Albert Einstein

Sexism corresponds. If the position of the two figures is swapped: a wealthy woman tie up a barely clothed man with her silk scarf as a way to vending the woman clothing, how would the opposite gender feel? This method of belittling one to raising another is worth of sneer. Ethical issues this image constructs with Philander, vulgarity and dishonour. Even if this vision is farfetched to be an action between a couple, the ‘fun’ action between a relationship, this way of exposing the intimacy to public extend with marketing illustrates a cheap fashion.

A number of potentially problematic ethical issues could throw by this image. Duncan Quinn as a high-end men’s wear fashion company chooses to present this sort of ‘style’ to attract the customer, which could lead other small companies to copy or even keep extending their moral baseline. To disgust a group of people in order to please another group of people is also not a wise act and it may also deliver away quite a few potential clients from their market. If the sexist advertisement is the only way to sell either men’s wear or woman’s wear, then, fashion will be ridiculously meanness and shameful. A severe Ethical issue should be taking in consideration against the creativity and the talent.

Reference:

[1] Duncan Quinn (2014) Bespoke Duncan Quinn New York. Available from: http://duncanquinn.com/about/ [Accessed 2 December 2017]

[2] Chris Graham(2010) Interview: Duncan Quinn. Available from: http://cherwell.org/2010/05/15/interview-duncan-quinn/ [Accessed 2 December 2017]

[3] Leonora Epstein (2010) Study shows violent Fashion Ads ”lure” Consumers, But is that all? Available from: http://www.thefrisky.com/2010-04-20/study-shows-violent-fashion-ads-lure-consumers-but-is-that-all/ [Accessed 2 December 2017]

As horrific the Duncan Quin advertisement was, this photo came to my attention as American Apparel is a sweatshop free clothing brand and specifically states that they are about ‘Equality, Diversity and Creativity’. In this ad the first thing you notice is the half-naked women lying on the bed staring at the camera. The women has no obvious emotion on her face in comparison to other advertisements I have seen. The model is positioned in a way that is very open and exposed. In this position is now vulnerable and can be taken advantage of. We also notice about the photo that the place she seems to be in does not seem very pleasant. The wooden chair in the background would probably be quite cheap, even though the photo is in black and white we are able to tell that there is no colour in the room, that everything seems to be mostly white, therefore we are able to tell that there are chips and cracks in the furniture you can see bits of. And that the room is very plain and does not seem to have much in it. From this we can suggest that whoever’s room this may be, may not be very wealthy. I searched American Apparel and their website states that their advertising campaigns [1]‘have become as synonymous with our brand name as the signature natural beauty’. When researching more about what they were about and what their campaigning signifies
They state that they feature ‘real girls who are selected not just for how they appear but for who they are’. So, does this advertisement really show who she really is as a person?
‘Their Intelligence, having a point of view and being an interesting person are qualities that we look for and those qualities brings energy to the pictures they take.’ The question that haunts me is how does advertisement seem to be showing this women’s intelligence?

When I researched about controversy in fashion advertisement I came across an article by the Varsity Fashion Editor Ellie Mullett, ‘The continual controversy of fashion ad campaigns’ as she reviews fashion houses mistakes in their ad campaigns.
[2]‘Some clothing is featured, but not a great deal of it, and that’s definitely not the first thing the viewer notices’ when reviewing the Saint Laurent campaign and how the way the model is sitting ‘She has been positioned to look compromised, and an uneasy feeling that she could be taken advantage of is projected’. This specific ad was described ’porno chic’ by director of the French advertising authority, Stephane Martin.

These type of advertising campaigns raise so much attention and make such a big impact. I feel that sometimes the fashion industry can become too competitive and can get carried away when trying to be more eye-catching than other competing brands. However, even in the fashion industry there should be such boundaries and should still respect them and avoid taking things to extreme.

Bibliography :
[1] http://www.americanapparel.com/en/aboutus/index.jsp
[2] https://www.varsity.co.uk/fashion/12930 Varsity, The continual controversy of fashion ad campaigns, Ellie Mullett

Advertisement is a very dominant subject, it can sculpt cultures and civilisations and has a large part to play in society. Through its influence and particularly fashion media, as this affects everyone as everyone is a consumer of fashion – to deliberately have such power and use it for inappropriate visual communication and personal benefit is vile…but unfortunately sex sells.

I have chosen to address the inappropriate ‘taste’ of an advertisement by Duncan Quinn, which features a woman in her lingerie spread on top of the bonnet of a car. I feel the photograph is strongly degrading towards women, especially considering the content but also the difference in dress between the male and female actors.

This irritation is led by the composition and superiority of the male actor, though such a simple change he is altered by the media to be perceived as a rich man and gives a concealed sense of superiority to all men. The chemistry between the two doesn’t flow and instead this is changed by the appearance of a tie around the woman’s neck which being held by the man. Immediately there is this change to the image that instead of the actress freely exposing herself, she is introduced to the audience as a sex slave. A mere dog on a leash, being subject to her masters desires. The expression the male actor is showing has a sense of pride, the appearance that he has caught- she is his trophy. This materialising of a woman, not as though she is human and an equal but as though the world is his competitor and she is who they are after.

One noticeable quote I found by GQ magazine was the comparison they made between Jimmy Saville and Duncan Quinn; GQ magazine aimed at a male audience and within it they described Quinn as: ‘Saville row meets rock ‘n’ roll  –  Duncan Quinn is the maker of unique ties and accessories that will always get you a second look’.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t find out when the quote by GQ was written, however the sexual tension is noticed and highlighted by the magazine, despite this magazine being aimed at a male audience even their comparison is something to notice. Could they be shocked at his advertisement and change?

We as a generation have been numbed to this way of thinking, there is almost a normality about the nudity that can be seen in advertisement which is worrying. Both to the identity of the models/actors but also to that of the audience; the damage that has been left is quite scarring; it questions people’s acceptance into society and fears which are almost uncontrollable. Especially with females as they are viewed as ‘essentially silly …the idea that it is every woman’s chief preoccupation to arouse male desire’. – Wilson>.E (1985) ‘ADORNED IN DREAMS, FASHION AND MODERNITY’, I.B Tauris & Co. Ltd London, New York.    P92.

The use of this genre of media has left people to have eating disorders, self-harm along with other factors and I am hurt to know this truth continues.

Wilson.E (1985) ‘ADORNED IN DREAMS, FASHION AND MODERNITY’, I.B Tauris; Co. Ltd London, New York.    P92.

Dr L. Holombe. (23rd November 2017)‘TASK 9 and 10- Ethics Images: Duncan Quinn’, Lecture Theatre A, WSA, Winchester School of Art

GQ Magazine quote (n.a) ‘Duncan Quinn’  http://duncanquinn.com/  (27th November 2017)

Overall, in my experience, the process of completing tasks one to ten has broadly developed my critical thinking skills. Throughout this module I have become increasingly aware of the complex relationship that exists between fashion and textiles and a wide range of factors including society, history, ethics and philosophy. This improved awareness has allowed me to develop a more analytical mind-set which I feel has already begun to contextualise my practice as a designer. At the start of the module I had already begun to question the paradigm of society in relation to sustainable fashion (as a result of my profound interest in Kate Fletcher’s pioneering work) but I had limited knowledge of other contemporary issues related to fashion and textiles such as gender stereotyping. On reflection, I now have a more informed viewpoint which has opened up more possibility for me to think radically and foster innovation within my visual practice.

I have really enjoyed the research aspect of the module, especially the opportunity to explore my own personal interests within this. For example in several tasks I focussed on the practice of sustainable fashion designers and academics and I have already gone on to integrate this research into my studio practice. In fact, I have begun to define and shape my identity as a designer through deliberately pursuing subjects that inspire me. I noticed that I am especially drawn to using fashion as a tool to question the paradigm of society and I propose to continue tailoring my research in a way that supports the development of my critical thinking and understanding around this. Maintaining an up-to-date awareness of the fashion industry, including the latest advancements in sustainable fashion and textiles, will also support me in becoming a more informed fashion designer with the ability to design within the context of our contemporary society.

One key issue that I had with all the tasks was that I unintendedly complicated the process of expressing my ideas in a written form and this made them overly time-consuming. Despite having numerous ideas from my extensive research, I found it challenging to clearly express myself in an academic style. I noticed that as a result of my preconceptions around academic writing I am very critical of my work so I struggle to express myself quickly. I think this contributed to my incoherent writing style in places because when I am over-thinking each minute detail the clarity of my ideas is often diluted. Furthermore, given that I regularly attempted to use more advanced vocabulary (using a dictionary to look up new words), the process of completing each written task became even more complex and time-costly. As I came across unfamiliar terminology in academic texts and during lectures for example, I compiled my own personal dictionary which I plan to add to throughout my degree. In the short-term this could be seen as an inefficient procedure; however in my opinion the long-term benefits of having this resource will outweigh this minor drawback. To conclude, in future written tasks I propose to comprehensively plan out my ideas so that they are clear and relevant. I will then experiment with writing in a more natural style where my viewpoint can be expressed with clarity, using predominantly my own vocabulary with a selection of new terminology where appropriate.

Over the course of this semester the weekly Research and Communication Skills lectures have taught me to analyse both images and pieces of writing in a thoughtful and reflective manner, as well as how to use online and academic sources to support and deepen my own work and how to reference these sources correctly to ensure my work meets the correct standards of academic integrity.  

The majority of the tasks were interesting to research and write about, such as the Visual Research and Online Research tasks, as I find broadening my knowledge on any topic is something I enjoy as I then have the knowledge to apply that information to different areas of my work, including my studio work. The Visual Research task, although very time consuming as a result of having to find the designer’s influences, was one of my favourite tasks as I found having to look closely at an image and reading about the context of it really made me think about what was behind the image and what was happening at the time in which the image was taken. I also think that having to look closely at an image will help me with future design work as I will be more inclined to look at the context of an image and not just take it at face value, therefore not only improving my understanding of various topics, but also making my design research more interesting and varied.  

There was, however, some tasks I found more challenging and less enjoyable, but still ultimately beneficial. One such task was the Reflective Writing task in which we had to compare a chapter of a book with additional academic sources we had gathered. I found this task to be the most time consuming as I found it challenging to find appropriate and interesting references to compare with the book chapter. Once I had gathered the references, I then found it challenging to know where it was appropriate and effective to add said reference, and atop of that how to respond to it in a thoughtful and reflective manner. It did, however, encourage me to use the library as well as the internet to find these references, and in the pursuit of an interesting online reference I came across a radio show that I would have never listened to ordinarily but turned out being very thought-provoking.  

I have found that as a result of writing these tasks I have endeavoured to find interesting and unusual sources, whether that be from the library, where as a result of having used it successfully a number of times I now feel confident in using it as a source for finding books and information relevant to all aspects of my work, or from the internet where my search for interesting and different sources has helped me expand my repertoire of useful websites. Therefore, I feel as though my work on a whole has benefitted from the skills I have learnt from writing these tasks, and I am now able to transfer these skills to my studio work, making my design research a good deal richer.  

The outcome of the tasks given each week was to produce a digital journey on the WSA blog post. I found the lectures to be really helpful and completing the tasks has helped me to gained new research and critical thinking skills. When I started Research and Communication I wasn’t sure how I felt because I knew that this module consisted of writing essay based tasks and written work is not my strong point.

Writing the first task about how to use online resources encouraged me a lot to go to the library because the aim of the task was to research primary and secondary materials. Searching on the internet for other sources was also easy and time efficient but I had to keep in mind that some sources found may not be as reliable as I thought. I found that going into the library physically motivated me to get the work done quicker as I get pretty distracted If I was to use the internet.

The next aim for the next task was how to reference sources properly using the Harvard Referencing System. I found this pretty straight forward, I’ve never used this way of referencing other than copying and pasting the link. As a result, I can confidently use this way to reference sources for my other projects.

I found that my strongest area in the module was writing the Visual Research and the Ethical Issue tasks. For the Visual Research task, I felt confident talking about the designer I chose due to admiration, and for the Ethical task it showed I had strong points and analysis on how men objectify women, I was quite shocked by the image that we used for the advertisement. We were encouraged to use a different range of sources to gather references and quotes, as a result it led me to use the resources in the library which was eminently useful, it directed me to find more information about my chosen designer and well suited academic quotes. 

Working on the Reflective Writing task was quite a challenge for me. Reading the chapter was a long process because I had to go back and re-read some paragraphs again in order to gain full understanding. As a result, I printed out the whole chapter to highlight and annotate the sentences I understood and wrote down a few points to make it clearer for myself. As well as reading the academic chapter I had to find a book which relates back to the task, this task wasn’t hard as I thought because I had an idea of what topic I needed to extract and in searching of a few books, I finally found one that was best suited.

Overall this semester has helped me understand the process of contextual writing, by breaking down to weekly tasks it gave me enough time to understand and respond to the theme. Also by being the on top of the work it became less stressful. This module has widened my knowledge on finding sources with different platforms, this will be beneficial to me in the future as I can relate it to my other ongoing projects.