Author Archives: Lucy Matthews

Task 9/10 – Ethical issues

I have chosen this image by Duncan Quinn, to explore ethical issues involved with this image. The first ethical issue which arose with the image was that the female model doesn’t have much modesty and could be seen as sexually exploited as she is only in her underwear. This contrasts with the male model who is wearing tailored clothing, the diversity within the picture shows the difference between models and clearly emphasises the controller from the submissive. The way the female is laying down and the male standing over her, gives the man a dominant character. From a feminist point of view it shows the man is controlling the women, this perceives that the women has less control over herself.

Looking in more depth of the image the female model has a tie around neck which is being pulled by the male model, this can be seen as domestic abuse as he is strangling her. The image can be perceived as violent and could possibly lead the audience to think its okay to exploit women. Furthermore it can the send a message that it alright for men to abuse women whilst looking smart and powerful while doing it.

As you do not see the female face it may seem that she is being strongly objectified as you only need to see her body to make a judgment, unlike the males face of which is looking straight at the camera. This image creates a fifty shades of grey feel about it for how men use women for their sexually gain and pleasure. The female has the characteristics of being a sex slave due to the pose and the submission.

Duncan Quinn is meant to be aimed at males, which sells suits and ties. You can see the products, a suit which the male model is wearing and the tie around the female neck. However the women in the image is the main point but the products aren’t really noticeable. This is a negative way to portray the models as it sends out the idea that women can be objectified. I came across blogs about the practical advert and how much controversy surrounds it. I found a blog by Sandra Winn who express her views on this advert. Sandra’s and my views correspond with each other on how the male model is the dominate and how the female is merely a object. I also found this quote by Paul Suggett, ‘Since the introduction of advertising many centuries ago, women have been objectified, and in some instances, insulted or degraded’, the advert by Duncan Quinn supports what Paul Suggett said by not showing the female with respect.

This image also brings up body image issues, other women may look at themselves in a negative way after seeing this advertisement, by looking at the model and her body. This will make them feel smaller and less respecting of themselves.

 

References:

Winn, s. (2008). Disturbing Sexists Ads: Duncan Quinn Suit Campaign Depicts Strangled Woman. Available: https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/duncan-quinn-suit-ad-depicting-strangled-woman. Last accessed 5th Dec 2017.

Suggett, P. (2016). The Objectification of Women in Advertising How Advertising Often Treats Women as a Commodity. Available: https://www.thebalance.com/advertising-women-and-objectification-38754. Last accessed 5th Dec 2017.

Final Task – Reflective Summary

Throughout this module I have learned new ways to research, using a variety of resources which I wouldn’t of usually used beforehand but will continue to use in the future. The weekly tasks have challenged my writing skills, as I have found it difficult to write essays and to analyse images and texts. By doing these tasks i have seen my writing skills improve and I feel more confident with doing these in future. The lectures have been really interesting and i have found them enjoyable while i have learned important factors with fashion which I haven’t learnt in practical sessions or study sessions.

The first few tasks were on using online resources, primary and second sources. The first task opened my eyes on using the library resources and using articles. In the past I  have never used books for researching merely used online resources such as Pinterest. This task has seen me broaden my mind and use books. I did find this task challenging as I had to relate all three resources together, as I’ve never done this in the past it wasn’t the easiest. However this has been helpful as I now think of a variety of research resource and how I can link them together.

The next task was about using Harvard referencing. I have used Harvard referencing before but not like this, although this is a long process it’s important and now I know to reference all of my work in this manor. The next task I found more challenging than the ones before, as I had to analyse an image which I find difficult, this is due to me never having to analyse anything in depth before.

The following task on reflective writing really challenge me. I enjoyed reading ‘Fashion as Communication’ text as my knowledge on fashion was expanded, I liked reading how fashion has many definitions and other peoples views on fashion were very interesting. Since the previous texts I have used library resources more and found it easy to find supporting texts. Again I liked reading the other texts as I got a better and more thorough understanding of the first text and fashion in general. I know now how further reading is useful as it can support other research. However writing up a summary was harder than expected as I didn’t know what to put without going into too much detail. I also had many ideas which got mixed up and made it harder to put my thoughts down clearly. The task I really enjoyed and found engaging was ethical issues. In the lecture I liked seeing how shocking each advert was and how many different opinions there were as well as the controversies surrounding them. This was a really interesting task as it challenged me to think in more depth and stretch my ideas about information i had never looked into.

Since doing all these task I have used more research resources in my studio work, I now use books more than i use websites which allows me to look more into the work than before. The tasks and lectures have been very useful as I’ve learnt new thinking skills as well research skills. They have tested me and made me push myself, each new task I improved from the previous one as I filtered my thoughts more and looked at them in more depth. This whole module has been very beneficial as everything I’ve learnt can be used throughout my degree and for the future.

Task 7/8 – Reflective Writing

The text I looked at was ‘Fashion as communication, Barnard. M’. The text mentions how we base peoples social class by what they wear, “we make decisions about the social status and role of the people we meet based on what they are wearing” (Barnard, Malcolm, 2002). Furthermore this chapter goes into fashion and anti fashion, the idea of fashion being fixated in high social roles, keeping it traditional to that social class which differs to the other classes. As this fashion is traditional its fixed which makes it anti fashion, its used as a representation of that class.

The text explores how fashion can be seen as trivia, being irrelevant to some people. This explores other peoples views and opinions on fashion. They see it not to be of high importance, however others would argue fashion is majorly important. People wear it daily and its a major factor in the economy, many are hypocritical and even wear it after commonly deeming it irrelevant.

Following on from the first text i found two others which support the first text. The second text I read was ‘The Restless Image A sociology Of Fashion, R. Konig’. I started off by reading the chapter ‘For and Against Fashion’, R. Konig used contrasting views of fashion, how some see it being a bad thing, whilst others see it creating individuality and diversity. The first text says how some people see fashion being trivial, the second text supports this by giving peoples views on fashion not being important. Furthermore, the second text gives arguments of these views, by stating how fashion is a powerful stimulus to the economy.

A point from both texts is asking what would happen if you took fashion away, stating that there would be no identification for people. To continue, its asking what would happen to the economy as fashion affects the majority of people meaning the economy could be affected heavily. The third text I found that also supported the first text is ‘The Culture Of Fashion, Breward. C’. This text supports the first by agreeing to how higher groups of society have strong identities for survival. Jennifer Craik mentions how these social groups offer role models that have a desirable image and behaviour.

After reading all three texts, and seeing how the ideas all support each other, I agree with many of the ideas explored. Firstly I agree with how people make judgments on how others dress, we look at peoples clothing before even engaging in conversation. I also agree with how fashion is a huge part of economy as everyone wears it and we cant escape. I disagree with peoples views on fashion being irrelevant, this is because it affects the many and without our individuality with identities nobody would be different. With the help of the other two texts, my thoughts have become clearer as I got more in depth knowledge.

References:

Barnard, M (2002). Fashion as communication. 2nd ed.

Konig, R (1973). The Restless image : a sociology of fashion. London: Allen & Unwin.

Breward, C (1995). The culture of fashion. Manchester: Manchester University Press.

Task 5/6 – Visual Research

 

A designer who inspires me the most is McQueen. I’m mostly inspired by McQueen as his collections are bold, unique and eye catching.

This photograph taken by Steve Meisel was used for Vogue and was taken in May 2011. The photograph shows a piece from McQueens savage beauty collection. It shows what inspires McQueen most, which is mainly the abuse he went through as young boy. His main message is to make people scared and afraid of the women that wears his clothing.. To continue, the image does this through the model by being at a higher angle than the photographer. The setting of the photo-shotis also dark and sends this nightmarish vibe which McQueen creates with his designs. As the model is at a higher angle than the photographer this makes the whole image of the model threatening.The background also create the nightmarish vibe with the eerie colours on the walls. This photograph has a distinct focus to capture the details of the garment and models scary features.

I found an another image of McQueens work, but taken by a different photographer. The other image I found was taken by Patrick Demarchelier. This second image differs to the first by being in a brighter setting, this means the garments stand out more. The actual garments in the second image by McQueen differ from the one in the first Image by the colour palette. The colours are more autumn, there are more oranges and reds, unlike the first image which was more of a one colour palette, on the other hand the images do share similar features. The models all have quite stand offish looks to pass over McQueens message to the audience.

To conclude, the first image by Steve Meisel really gives off McQueens message of fear towards the women he dressed. The whole setting of the photograph creates a dark and ominous mood which is perfect for the garment. The second image is more relaxed and doesn’t have the darkened feel to it, it does stain in keeping with McQueens style ensuring the models still look fierce.

 

References:

CROSSLEY, L. (2015). Alexander McQueen’s sister reveals how the fashion designer was inspired by abuse suffered at the hands of her first husband. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3086260/Alexander-McQueen-s-sister-reveals-fashion-designer-inspired-abuse-suffered-hands-husband.html. Last accessed 1st Nov 2017.

Brandini, B. (2015). Alexander McQueen: the most sensitive and brilliant visionary of fashion. Available: http://www.beatricebrandini.it/alexander-mcqueen-the-most-sensitive-and-brilliant-visionary-of-fashion/?lang=en. Last accessed 1st Nov 2017.

http://blog.chanluu.com/platos-atlantis/

http://tinysparklythings.blogspot.co.uk/2009/10/inspiration-behind-alexander-mcqueen.html

http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20150313-fashions-dark-fairytale

http://www.beatricebrandini.it/alexander-mcqueen-the-most-sensitive-and-brilliant-visionary-of-fashion/?lang=en

Task 3/4 – Academic Integrity

Plagiarism and integrity

Architecture is a favourite theme for me in fashion, I’m interested in how buildings across the world influence many fashion designers. Barcelona is one country that has unique buildings.

I found this book in the Winchester school of art library, called Barcelona, buildings in Europe. The book showed photographs of buildings in Barcelona and information on the photographer and the architect and the building itself. The photographs were in black and white so it was hard to look at the detail of the buildings. But the book was very useful at discovering many buildings.

Woodward, C. 1992. Barcelona: the buildings of Europe. Manchester university press, Manchester, UK.

After looking at the book, I wanted to see what fashion designers were hugely influenced by architecture. One designer popped out at me, Pierre Cardin. The designer studied architecture at university, but returned to study fashion. The bubble dress he created I think has strong links to architecture. I found this website of designers but Pierre Cardin stood out the most.

Sophie Atkinson. (2016). 10 Architecture Influences in Fashion You Need to Know About. Available: https://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/06/01/fashion-designers-influenced-architecture/. Last accessed 25 oct 2017.

To expand my knowledge on the buildings of Barcelona I found an article GaudĂ­’s ‘cathedral for the poor’. This article looked at one of Gaudi’s buildings and gave insight into its history and the beautiful structure inside and out.

Fraser, G. 2015. Barcelona’s Sagrada FamĂ­lia: GaudĂ­’s ‘cathedral for the poor’ – a history of cities in 50 buildings, The Guardian, 3rd June.

Task 1/2- Online Resources

With an interest in architecture I started looking books based on interesting buildings. I found this  book Barcelona by Christopher Woodward in the architect section of the Winchester school of art library. facilities. I was attracted to this book as I know Barcelona has a number of unique buildings.

Looking through the book I found this photograph of Casa Amatller, which was photographed by Josep Puig I Cadafalch. This building caught my eye by the roofing detail.

After finding this picture I read more about it, and the photographer. Puig I Cadafalch’s studied architecture in Barcelona, he was influenced by Domènech i Montaner, in his early Modernista period.

1) Photographed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch

After finding the picture of Casa Amatller I started researching into fashion garments with structure or inspired by architecture. I found this image of this fashion garment by looking up designers who were influenced by architecture and structure I found this designer, Noa Raviv.

This image relates to my secondary research of Casa Amatller by the grid print on the garment. The grid I think relates to the roofing of Casa Amatller by the angles, which is why I choose.

Researching more into Noa Raviv, who have used integrated 3D printed elements in their garments. This designer was influenced by distorted digital drawings. To create the gridded print Noa Raviv printed and stitched lines into fabrics to recreate 3D drawings. There print patterns were warped and stretched across parts of the garments to create an optical illusion. This effect I like as it attracts you more to the garments. Finding more Noa Raviv, they were also inspired by classical Greek sculpture to create a modern day version.

2) Noa Raviv 3D hard copy collection

To expand my knowledge of Casa Amatller I started researching more of its history and found an archive of Casa Amatller. Josep Puig i Cadafalch was commissioned by Adolf Mas Ginesta to photograph his architectural work. Puig I Cadafalch also helped Adolf Mas Ginesta to define the organisational system of the archive.

3) Mas archive of Case Amatller

This research has expanded my knowledge on architecture and buildings and how they have a influence on the fashion world. This research has shown me strong link between structure in fashion and everyday objects such as buildings.This research has given me more inspiration with structure and architecture and made me more interested in it.

Bibliography 

  1. Christopher Woodward (1992). Barcelona (buildings of Europe), Manchester University Press.

2) ALICE HARRISON. (2016). NOA RAVIV: 3D PRINTED HARD COPY COLLECTION. Available: http://www.peopleofprint.com/fashion/noa-raviv-3d-printed-hard-copy-collection/.

3) http://en.fundacionamatller.org/archivo-mas/historia/