Author Archives: Warapan Wanachai

About Warapan Wanachai

BA Fashion Textiles

Task 7/8 Reflective Writing

Fashion Media

Fashion media: Past and Present edited by Djurdja Bartlett, Shaun Cole and Agnes. 

I’ve chosen this book because i think that the fashion media is one of a very interesting topic to write about. The title of the article is “Taste, Fashion, and French Fashion Magazine by Sanda Miller” I’d like to read and analyse this topic further in depth and writing me thoughts and summerize it from my perspective.

After I’ve read through the article I’ve manage to understand and get a vague overview base on the topic, the article is 8 pages long while i was reading the article I’ve note down some keywords as it will be useful because i don’t have the actual book next to me by doing this it’ll help reminded me and i can use it as a reference while reflecting to the article later on.

I’ve read through the whole article and decided to first unpack the first part of the articl (first paragraph on p.13) my analysis is that the text discuss how the fashion magazine have been one of the important stages to represent fashion, social, culture, and taste which is “conceived as a gazette that covers arts, theatre, and also gossip column which as accepted to be when Jean Donneau de Vise published “Le Mercure Galant”. To help me understand the whole article i have to first unpack everything bit by bit and then added up then gather my thought my understanding of the article is accurate as much as possible.

My interpretation of this article is dicuss the “fashion and taste” the art philosophers, and journalist critics criticised that is fashion considered as a form of art? The article also discuss personal opinion and personal “avowals” which is base on their experience of what’s considered beautiful and not beautiful like a painting for example which link to the “delicacy of the imagination”. The article also talks about the revolutionary of the fashion magazines, “fashion plate” (which is fashion illustration used in magazines) which considered as “wasteful elegance of the aristocracy during the Rococo period” 

(P.18)

(P.228)

Elizabeth Wilson (2003) Adorned in Dreams fashion and modernity, London, I.B. Tauris& Co.Ltd. 

To develop me analysis I’ve bring up this book Adorned in Dreams by Elizabeth Wilson and I’ve found this quote in chapter 11: Feminism and Fashion which talks about how clothes are important or unimportant for everyone in general whether men or women. Fashion had always considered and critised and argue by many critics and journalists some said that it’s a trivial subject and shouldn’t consider as a form of art, for people who interested in it would see it as a ways to express their personal style and taste and how appeareance can affected the way people think of their personality.

Mary Eliza Haweis 1870s.

This quote link to the “Fashion media” about “fashion and taste” and this quote stating pretty similar thing this one saying that people who associate themselves with beautiful things would see that taste and fashion are important to them that any flaws in colours would make them feel “disapprobation” and even “physical pain”.

Jukka Gronow 14 Aug 2017 Taste and Fashion: The social Function of Fashion and Style. http://somethingcurated.com/2017/08/14/taste-fashion-social-function-fashion-style/ [07/12/17]

I’ve found this online article about taste and fashion: social function and style this article is more current than the other two books which gave a diffent view and perspective to this topic but they all discuss the similar topic which is “aesthetic” and how each individual consider it as a important part of their lifestyle and how it’s socially acceptable.

References:

1. Fashion media: Past and Present edited by Djurdja Bartlett, Shaun Cole and Agnes.

2. Elizabeth Wilson (2003) Adorned in Dreams fashion and modernity, London, I.B. Tauris& Co.Ltd.

3. Jukka Gronow 14 Aug 2017 Taste and Fashion: The social Function of Fashion and Style. http://somethingcurated.com/2017/08/14/taste-fashion-social-function-fashion-style/ [07/12/17]

 

 

Task 11/12 Summary

Research and communication module is a subject that I’m quite familiar with as I’ve done this before in college although the level of difficulties are different I find that some of the task are challenging and also interesting sometimes I felt uninterested and don’t really enjoy doing so i struggled with most of them but after i got into it I’ve realised that this is a very useful skills to have in term of research as part of the course.

Different tasks requires research from different resources and influenced me to use that in my in this module and project works. I’ve found that ive been relied on the internet research most of the time like Pinterest or wiki pedia after the introduction to the Online Reseorces teach me how the research process could be done in many different ways like primary, secondary and incourages me to use the WSA library because there’re a range of many interesting books in there that you can’t find it on the internet. I’ve also learnt from the task Acadamic integrity which I think very important how to references the sources that I|’ve used because referencing the books and online article is different which I always forget about this very important part most of the time so referencing is not as difficult as I imagine it’s more about getting in the routine of doing it every time I’m doing any researches or used other people’s works.

I don’t feel very motivated when it comes to written the task my thought of doing it’s make me felt dreadful I just don’t know what to write for analysing the images or how will I make it sounds interesting so I’ve found that choosing the images or topic that I’m interested in have a lot of impact on keeping me writing about, easier for me to come up with what to write without realising how much I already wrote. The task that most difficult for me to write about is “Reflective Writing” because I found that I have to read the article over and over again to really get into what it trying to say and understand it completely which is difficult because of the language and lots of the vocaburay in the article that i don’t understand like “iconographical” so I have to translate and google the definition of it which sometimes when i sum up the whole sentences it doesn’t makes sense so I’m not sure of my interpretation of it is 100% correct or not so I have to keep doing the same thing throughout the article which take me quite a long time to finished reading because I have to stop reading in order to note down and translate the word. So I have been stuck on this task for quite a bit because i don’t know what to write about it so I have a read of other people blog who did the same task and this had diffinitely help guide me and give me some ideas on how to write about it.

In conclusion reflecting on all the task that I’ve done I’ve learnt a lot from this module in term of using different sources for research gave me variety and wider range for inspirations I have found that it have massive impact on my own work (projects) also what interesting is to see how each student responses diffently in the same task.

Task 9/10 Ethical Issues

American Apparel

For this task i chosen this image because I’m more familiar with the brand and interested to dig deeper in terms of their ethical problems and what happens insight the business. When I google images this brand there’re a lot of images of their advertising posters which also including the image on the top came up along with lots of other ones which is i think far more worse. So that got me thinking of what is their target customers and audiences, American Apparel is a American clothing brands founded in 1989 by Canadian Dov Charney began by selling high- quality T-shirts to screen printers and boutiques in 1990 under the American Haeavy label, the brand had been around for quite a long time they got many retails store all around the world the brand are really well known for their making the 80s style knees high socks popular again.

Their Ethical issues is mostly about thier advertisements which are known as provocative and controversial, which are largely the inspiration of the company CEO Dov Charney, which has been largely critisied but also lauded for their honesty and lack of airbrushing. The company has used pornographics actors and glamour models in some of their advertisements, they’ve been using the sexual themes for magazines which would be eye gazing for many men which have been banned by various advertising authorities and also one of the magazine was banned in the UK. The model that are appear in the ads posters are mostly teenage looking which are age around 16-19 who appear to look like a child which is promoted sexualised and also pedophile which i think are not very thoughtful of how the advertise could trigger rape and child abuse without realising. Most of their advertises are featured a women or girl wearing nothing but a pant or with the knees high socks posing in a very inappropriate and raunchy position and some of the body part has often been covered by text of the brand’s name with the relevant description or sometimes the name of the model which to me it would seems like a  pornographic magazine this is where i think that is one of the Ethical issue of the brand the advertise is unnecessary and contradicted with the brand but I could see the point that this could boost sales but i don’t think anyone or a parents would wants their kids to buy the clothes from this brand.

The company have been subject to many public sexual harassment lawsuits and have also been sued by many ex- models for sexual harassment which involved mutual nudes photographs and sexual text. “The company was mired in controversy, but at its heart was a desire to produce clothing that did not harm and exploit the people who made it” – Dazed 16th January 2017 Emma Hope Allwood online article.  After reading the article i felt like that there’re some people out their who love the brand and seen the positive in them which i think that the brand been a little misjudged and harshly critized which i think is fair from what they’ve promoted but the point is that comparing to now a day lots of brands have there own positive and negative views from buyers and critics. “After a highly- publicised bankruptcy filling and attempted restructed, the news broke that American Apparel had been sold to Gildan” – Dazed fashion news 14th January 2017 Emma Hope Allwood. 

References:

1. Image from the presentation

2. Emma Hope Allwood 2017 “American Apparel is Officailly over as we know it” http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/34321/1/american-apparel-is-officially-over-as-we-know-it [06/12/17]

3. Emma Hope Allwood 2017 “why we should regret the end of American Apparel” http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/34330/1/why-we-should-regret-the-end-of-american-apparel-ethical-labour-sweatshop-free [06/12/17]

 

Task 5/6

Yves Saint Laurent Mondrian Dress

Composition II in Red, Blue, and Yellow, 1930

Genre: Abstract Art

Media: Canvas, oil paint

This is a painting by Piet Mondrian he was a Dutch painter and theoretician who is regarded as one of the greatest artists of the 2oth century. Mondrian began producing grid- based paintings in late 1919. when I looked at this painting I felt very limited, in terms of colours and shapes it’s very simple and basic but which is what Modernism and Bauhaus are best known for so this painting also reminded me of architectures, abstracts and geometric. for the colours that have been used is yellow, red, and blue which are all high contrasting primary  colours and all of them got divided with vertical, horizontal thick black lines which help to accentuated the lines across over each other are “similarly rendered”. The composition and the painting itself is very “static”. The Mondrian Collection was designed by French designer Yves Saint Laurent 1966, the collection was a homage to the work of several modernistic artists, part of the collection were six cocktails dresses that were inspired by the paintings of Piet Mondrian. The designer acknowledged that the work of Mondrian inspired him to focused on the simple and minimal decoration overall the effect appeared simple but the technique was complex and required precision cutting to achieve intensive  haute couture successfully making the dress expensive.

Although this Mondrian Collection were very successful it was noted that several other designers had produced very similar works beforehand, in 1965 a New York reported noted that the dresses closely resembled two- colour jersey dresses that had already been produced and widely retailed by French Desinger Michele Rosier and John Kloss. The collection was widely published in many fashion magazines with one dress featuring on the cover of Vogue in 1965, and can be found in several museums around the world including the V&A Museum in London.

References

1.https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mondrian_collection_of_Yves_Saint_Laurent
2. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piet_Mondrian
3. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piet_Mondrian
4. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piet_Mondrian
5. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piet_Mondrian
6. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Stijl
7. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Stijl
8. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Stijl
9. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modernism
10. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serge_Poliakoff

 

 

Task 3/4 References

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untitled (2) Watt, Judith (2012) Alexander McQueen Fashion Visionary published 2012 by Goodman books Limited, London

I was looking at the British fashion designers shelve on the library and come across this book, one of the most famous fashion designer in British and in fashion industry. I like to know and learn about the designer background and how they uses their experiences to develop their work and what influences their collections. Reading this book give me a lot of insight about the artist personality and who he really is as a person “he loved women, really adored them – and not just for their statuesque beauty, but for our fragility as well as our strength our ghosts and demons alongside our accomplishment” this make me realised that Alexander McQueen work is rare and he introduces new thing to fashion, some of his collection might be extremely outrageous and people might seen it and take it the wrong way while he’s just trying to empowering women and femininity.

 

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This site shows Alexander McQueen spring 2012 ready to wear collection it’s a very well known created by Sarah Burton “she based her collection on the three Gs: Gres for the pleating and draping, Gaudi for the architecture, and Gaia for the sense of all-encompassing oceanic life that infused the clothes, like the outfits composed of coral or shells” i like the idea of the collection and the thoughts behind it is very thoughtful like the designer was not just thinking about the look but also the movements of the fabrics “Empire line of ruffles, which undulated as a models walked, “like a jellyfish moves in the sea” which i find what inspiring the most about the collection.

Vogue PLC (2011) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012 Ready-To-Wear Collection Available from:  http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2012-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/collection [Accessed 20/10/17]

McQueen’s criticised debut show for Givenchy in 1997 (photo: Rankin/ Trunk Archive)

This online news article was wrote in 2015 about how Alexander McQueen got his name in the fashion industry. The article is about the collection that McQuuen collaborate with the brand Givenchy the collection is called “It’s a Jungle out there” which inspired by the television documentary on gazelles” the collection is interesting from where the inspiration begins in the first place, and how the designer interpret it in this way. I like the animal and fierce look in this collection I’ve learn from this article that ideas is unlimited and inspiration can come from many things and can always turned into an art work if you do it with passion.

References:

1.  Watt, Judith (2012) Alexander McQueen Fashion Visionary published 2012 by Goodman books Limited, London

2. Vogue PLC (2011) Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012 Ready-To-Wear Collection Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2012-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/collection [Accessed 20/10/17]

3. Thomas. DANA (2015) Alexander McQueen: The fashion show that made his name. Telegraph 14th February.

Task 1/2 Research Process

Versace

y Evening gowns, spring- summer 1994. Black silk with silver and  gold- tone- metal safety- pin ornaments. Courtesy Gianni Versace Archives

Gianni Versace published by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 1997

hurley_embed_1595192aI chose to look at the designer book Gianni Versace and chosen this image as i think the dress is  very iconic creation and have been worn for the first time by the famous model Liz Hurley in 1994. In the book shows this dress on the mannequin showing the cut out details and oversized gold safety pins ornaments held together the cut out. “The dress is said to be punk- inspired, “neo-punk”. This dress that the designer Versace made had made the model Liz Hurley become recognisable as the “dress received considerable global coverage in newspaper and magazines around the world” The model benn credited for making the Versace fashion brand a household name. This dress also been worn by famous singer Lady Gaga in 2010.

Versace is very well known about their signature gold baroque motifs printed design on silk fabrics, I think that this dress is another signature design and revolutionary back in 1994 after the little black dress by Chanel in 1920s the designer Versace took this to another level the cut out detail with the gold safety pins fastenings sexy and sophisticated at the same time the slit detail let the skin peak through the garment but not too much cleavage being exposed giving women the confident to express themselves through the invention of the designer and their intention of the design.

 

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I’ve found this similar style black dress that the Versace in a short bodycon style with one long sleeve on the right side with a halter neck line. The design of the dress is more current less revealing but still very sophisticated and more high fashion compare to the other one which looks more classy i think because of the longer lenght of the dress, an how it been worn by the model to the event at that time. This dress was cut split on the side and by the shoulder seam just a glimpse of  leg and cleavage and was held together by clasps instead of a safety pins which i think makes the spacing between the dress narrower and shows less skin. This similar dress was created by the same brand Versace in 2o years later after “That Dress” was made it’s interesting to see how the designer change the styling of the dress play with the shape of the garment  but kept the same iconic feature which what make the dress famous and well known is the gold metal safety pins, or clasps that make the simple black dress into something more specials and recognisable. The brand has created their iconic look which can’t be copied with this features can be uses in so many different ways like skirts, tops, etc which I’ve seeen and similar to Chanel  jackets which the brand uses tweed fabrics to ceates so many different styles of clothing which i would still recognise  it was made by Chanel even without the logo because of what was created by the designer in the first place in the past.

Refernces:

1. Gianni Versace published by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 1997

2. Williams, Amanda 2014 “THAT dress is back… and this time it’s even racier than ever: New safety pin Versace dress first worn by Liz Hurley hits runway at New York Fashion week“ http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2750197/THAT-dress-time-racier-New-safety-pin-Versace-dress-worn-Liz-Hurley-hits-runway-New-York-Fashion-week.html [11/25/17]