I started my research with a secondary image from the book ‘FASHION, A History from the 18th to the 20th Century’ by TASCHEN. The image I chose was of an Evening dress from 1921 the image stood out to me because the garment was very elegant yet simple in style and the overall design and embroidery of the evening dress was detailed and looked expensive. The description in the book next to the image states that the evening dress is made of ‘Silk jacquard of lavender’ it has ‘bead embroidery and fringe at the hip’ detailing the evening dresses style and hinting at the expense. Adding primary research to my work I went online and visited the ‘Vogue’ website and typed the weave technique ‘Jacquard’ into the search bar as it was a feature of the secondary research that I found intriguing so i wanted to find more modern uses of the weave technique. As my primary research I discovered, on Vogue’s website a new collection/collaboration by Erdem x H&M coming out November 2017 which uses jacquard as one of the collections main features along with lace and frills. I found it interesting how Erdem x H&M used jacquard in a very modern way and how it did not make the garments look dated but rather added to the overall look of the final design. I associate jacquard with the 1800’s and the detailed tapestry’s the jacquard loom produced, so for the Erdem x H&M collection to use the technique in modern designs and make them relevant and interesting is a great achievement. I personally love the collection and think that they used the heavy material to create interesting shapes and lines within their garments.
To further my research I googled ‘jacquard loom’ and found on the national museum Scotland website a reliable source of information regarding jacquard looms and their contribution to the society we live in today, such as there punch hole method used in Jacquard looms is the bases of modern computer programming. The overall technique was more complex than the previous way of weaving in the 1800’s and allowed the weaver to create more detailed and larger textiles than before. I find this interesting as jacquard looms are still being used today in the fashion industry, such as the Erdem x H&M collection, and for high street sale to create interesting and fashionable garments showing that it is still as relevant in today’s fashion industry as it was when first produced in 1801 and used by liberty and co Paris and London for their silk evening gowns.
I found this research process interesting as it allowed me to explore an area of fashion that I had never looked into before, showing me the basics of complex fabric designs and the start of a revolutionary piece of equipment still used in the fashion industry today.
http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/first-look-hm-erdem-collaboration-pictures