The passage titled ETYMOLOGY in FASHION AS COMMUNICATION, CHAPTER 1 pulls apart the many definitions and interpretations of the words to describe ‘fashion’. They assess the range of definitions of fashion from the past up until modern western society. I feel the author gives this insight as means to reflect upon the concept of “fashion” in a more cautious and considered context.
They write the sentence “encourage people to believe that these words are somehow more synonymous than they really are” however in some way I believe these words are in fact more alike than not. For example: ‘style’ can be used to both style one’s hair or produce a style as a result as touched upon in the passage. In my opinion, both illustrate the idea of the creation of something decorative and imperative for appearance. I do however agree with the following statement:” the impossibility of, trying to provide a final or rigid definition of the meanings of any of these words” expressed in the sub-paragraph FASHION, STYLE, CLOTHING, DRESS. The concept of fashion is such a broad one, there are so many areas it may cover which is why I think it is so fought over. Fashion can cause endless outcomes even if they are unbeknownst to most.
FASHON AND ANTI-FASHION talks about the desire to fit in with wider society but still maintain a degree of individuality. I performed some research into the subculture of ‘Punks’ in 1976, this style or fashion was designed to provoke, or turn fashion against the norm of the wider society by wearing non-conformist or atypical items such as bondage wear or household objects such as paper clips, however by doing this somehow created this microcosm of culture to become a macrocosm in the mainstream of England thus rendering the initial purpose obsolete. “And still people find solidarity, revolt, and individuality by inhabiting a shared costume marking their membership in a subculture.” (Clark, Dylan. 2003. “The Death and Life of Punk, The Last Subculture,” pp. 223-36, In David Muggleton and Rupert Weinzierl (eds.), The Post-Subcultures Reader. Oxford: Berg.) I find this quote very important in making an example of the general idea of what this passage is trying to tell us about fashion. How people want to fit in as a whole whilst not becoming lost in a sea of clones, still remaining special to a degree.
As a personal response to this entire chapter I would say that it has given me wider angles to look at when analysing fashion, be it garments, creation or concepts. The writer has taken some elements that may even be slightly controversial, or people may take offence to and admitted as such which makes me value the integrity of this chapter more so even when I know not everyone can agree with everything including myself. In reading this chapter I have come to conclude that etymology can be argued over but actually everything can change based on society, nothing to do with fashion as a whole is stable.

During this semester we’ve been given 6 complete essays to write. Although I am unsure of how I’ve done or if my writing is successful, I have found that throughout this experience I have developed many new approaches to my writing I had not before explored.

Written tasks have never been my strong suit so the separation of each paper into weeks at a time really helped manage my work. It kept my time management in check so that the stress of the task didn’t build up on me. Admittedly I left the ‘reflective writing’ too long as it was the most daunting task to perform as said by many of the class and the lecturer. This was a poor decision of mine as it then made the next task slightly more rushed.

When writing the paper on ‘ethics’ I found coming up with ideas was a lot easier. In the lecture everything was very interactive and therefore as a class we shared opinions, and this inspired some of my work. I found it easier to find things to say as the photo we used in regard to the topic as it was very bluntly questionable. When I saw a bit more passion towards the subject the whole experience was less taxing and took a lot less time to write. It also came to my attention that when a topic is so controversial you will find a number of papers from activists or researchers who want to stop or reduce the stigma perceived in society. This also then made it relatively easier to find academic quotes and also quotes from regular people too. In result of this I plan to, whenever I am in need of breaking down an image, choose something topical and relevant to really stimulate myself.

The problem I found with finding sources was that I mainly searched the internet but it is very hard to tell sometimes If a source is reliable to quote of if the ideas are entirely the writers. Surprisingly the library became an easier source than I thought based on how specialised to our subjects it is.

I found learning to Harvard reference in the academic integrity essay exceptionally helpful as with everything I write I can now give appropriate credit to areas where it is due. This will definitely be a skill I will take forward to me and that has already been proved through the use of it in further essays. Also posting my personal work onto a shared blog made me think with more consideration as I was putting it out there for everyone to see and judge and I personally find this kind of pressure helpful.

Looking back at this entire process it is clear to see that I have developed my understanding but also identified some weaknesses in myself that I need to work on and now I may do so and continue to improve my work. I look forward to one day using these skills professionally.

In Fashion as Communication, Malcolm Barnard challenges and explores the complex meaning of “fashion” and the many different interpretations around the world. Challenging social structures, tradition and psychological factors that dictate the direction of “fashion” trends.

What I found most interesting was the summarisation of both “fashion” and “anti-fashion”. Barnard stated that fashion predominantly existed in first world countries where hierarchal structures existed to climb, where personal style becomes communal style and everyone longs to belong. He also stated that the only people that truly embraced “fashion” were the ones that wanted to achieve social status and climb from their current step on the social ladder. “Anti-fashion” was then said to either subsist in primitive societies, religion or in communities where there wasn’t a step higher to climb; where things were accepted as they are and had no incentive to change. Fashion was regarded as a purely egocentric and tainted industry, as opposed to the liberating and personal practice I believe it to be. Another point I found fascinating was the double standards he spoke of in the fashion industry, regarding gender equality and the arts superiority to fashion; a point I whole heartedly believe to be true.

Malcolm Barnard failed to acknowledge the French. In a country where men and women dress for practicality and timeless elegance as opposed to ulterior motives and social climbing tendencies. Rich or poor, you see Parisians in simplistic clothing that pride quality over quantity. While the rest of the Western world use their wardrobe as a platform to reach higher places, the French get dressed to make the climb to the top more comfortable. Men and women alike have the freedom and confidence to wear what makes them comfortable, they aren’t restricted by words like “feminine” and “masculine” (the words that should really be studied), they merely choose pieces they like and wear what makes them feel content and relaxed. As said in Chanel’s fashion memoir: “simplicity will undoubtedly be the last word in luxury”.

I think what they, and the many followers of French fashion possess is a heightened appreciation of individuality. English designer Bella Freud put it perfectly in her interview with ‘The New Garconne’ saying ‘All my interest in fashion is in identity’. I think its pointless to stereotype and restrict this incredibly freeing term embraced world wide. I don’t think “fashion” is something that can be studied and result in a definitive answer; I think the reason its such a bewitching industry is its meaning is endless and personal. In regards to art surpassing “fashion”, I think its a continuation of chauvinistic white male domination of previous decades. Personally I believe “fashion” is the more practical approach to art, what makes art better than being able to whip it up into a design that will keep you warm and protect your modesty.

Batliwalla, N.B (2016) The New Garconne. London: Laurence King

Baudot, F.B (1958) Fashion Memoir Chanel. London: Thames and Hudson.

There were a variety of different tasks set as part of the R.C.S. module. All of which I found to enhance my thought processes for the course as a whole as well a teaching important academic points. Skills such as analysis, comparison and researching were all learnt.

The research element was possibly the most important and valuable. Learning to use online resources along side the library. To have to find relating sources as well as conflicting sources was a great skill to be introduced to. This skill can be transferred for use when researching for a fashion design project. All sorts of sources can be found that build on your initial idea. The Visual Research task made me realise that designers with true integrity use a huge, varying portfolio of sources. Analysis of these sources was also a good skill to exercise. Going deeper into an image than just the initial glance.

The Ethics Task also required this level of thinking about an image. It means you get so much more out of an image than you first realise. The other side of the Ethics task was interesting as well. As designers we have a responsibility in the industry and to really think about ethics was essential. There are many different elements and god debate to be had about a lot of aspects of ethics.

The writing side of all of these tasks required a certain level of thinking and made a difference to the largely very creative side of the course. The Reflective Task in particular required a bit of brain work. It was good to try and write with a certain level of academic input as well as read fully academic text. I enjoyed doing this at secondary school in subjects such as history and politics and it was good to exercise it again. The philosophy and history in the text we were set for the Reflective Task was a good basis to think about the subject of fashion as a whole. Having to think about the bigger picture makes for a better designer.

What was a bit of a struggle was the academic integrity, I understand the need for it – plagiarism is a very serious subject. Putting the explanations of this subject area was difficult, I also feel I have covered this area rather too much in the past.

All in all the different elements of this module covered a good spectrum of thinking. The research and getting into the habit of collecting references I feel will be the most beneficial for enhancing my other modules which are more creative. Finally the module has made me think about the fashion industry as a whole more and in a broader and more in depth way.

One of the most controversial brands of the 21st century, American Apparel originated as a wholesale supplier. It became synonymous with high quality cotton t-shirts and favoured by merchandise printing companies. Soon moving on to becoming one of the largest retailers specialising in preppy American basics, with over 250 stores in 2010.

Responsible for creating and printing their infamous campaigns, American Apparel faced massive criticism for their sexually charged advertisements. While they continuously boast about their ‘Made in USA’ and sweatshop free production, they seem unbothered by the fetishisation of young girls. Continuously romanticising sexual objectification and degrading girls for attention. The lack of airbrushing doesn’t compensate for their psychological scarring on young girls. While sexual liberation is beautiful and should be respected, it shouldn’t be morphed to fit the male fantasy; it should be personal and selfish.

The photograph in mention contains a young woman laid on a neatly made bed in a sparsely decorated room that appears uninhabited and cold. Based on AA’s advertising campaigns, I think this is constructed to resemble the ‘classic bachelor pad’, the girl representing an innocent and willing guest. Wearing nothing but nylon tights slipped down to her knees with her legs in the air. She’s pulling her tights towards her body instead of off her body, as if out of urgency or non-committal convenience. The most disturbing part of this image is that she’s pictured with a completely emotionless expression, as if powerless and trapped. The photograph is predominantly white, the colour of virginal purity, further advocated by the age of the girl; yet her dark features and black stockings reveals a more seductive layer. It’s taken from above, giving the illusion of domination and superiority. The bottom of her breasts and buttocks are in direct eye line down the centre of the image, cleverly placed hands and a bold white logo cover the bare minimum, just enough to be marketable.

While I believe the brands identity was influenced by the style of the 90’s supermodel where child like qualities were favoured: doe-eyed, shapeless, skinny girls with innocent expressions (who were made to model in the nude, in their seemingly pre-pubescent bodies). I think the desire was to capture what the majority of generations wish they still had: youth. While the intention may have been harmless enough, the standardisation and insensitivity of pedophellia  and sexual exploitation is unforgivable.

I sometimes imagine American Apparel had Vladimir Nabokov’s ‘Lolita’ (1962) playing continually in the back ground as they brainstormed their advertising campaigns. At the time of this campaign the company solely stocked woman’s clothing, and it disgusts me that they used their massive influence to broadcast this image of a powerless and desperate girl with no other want than to be objectified. Strong and independent is just as sexy, it just puts the power in the woman’s hands. The fetishisation of young girls, or boys, is something that cannot be allowed. We have a moral obligation to protect and defend whats right and wrong, especially when it compromises the safety and happiness of future generations.