Sally Singer, Spring 2018 ready-to-wear Rodarte, Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/rodarte [Accessed 2 July 2017]

I got inspiration while looking at Rodarte’s ready-to-wear spring/summer 2018. Their Spring 2018 collection was staged in the 16th-century cloister of a hospital. You can see Tulle dresses and separates, manipulated and embellished in every possible way: studded with pearls, caviar beads, ostrich feathers, polka dots. Leather motocross jackets, cut cropped but full, pierced with yet more pearls. Delicate floral-print chiffon dresses and jumpsuits. Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy claimed that they used Robert Altman’s 3 Women as the starting point for the collection, and nowhere was this more apparent than in their color choices.

The woman’s outfit in one of the pictures I chose is similar to the outfits in the Rodarte’s collection. The image was not pre-planned as it doesn’t have a backdrop. So I think it is more like a natural photograph in a party. We can see the woman sat at the table and talked to the woman next to her, and the ourfit she wore are still seem very atmospheric and elegant now. So I am curious to googled and found that the woman in the picture is Bianca Jagger. She is the queen of fashion in 70s and Mousika of Yves Saint Laurent who comes from South America, also the rolling stones frontman Mick Jagger’s ex-wife. She is also a strong feminist and anti war activists. Her faith is ‘First influence, then change the world.’that made me deeply moved.

As Robert Altman’s 3 Women is a 70s movie, Bianca Jagger is the queen of fashion in 70s, She can be said to represent the epitome of fashion at that time. To sum up, I love Rodarte’s Spring 2018 collection and think it is an interpretation of alienation and odd neurotic temperament.

Abstract is relative to the concept of concrete. It is a common concept extracted from a variety of things, and then integrated into a new concept that forming the concept of abstract. In order to learn more about abstract art, I found a book call Abstract Expressionism in the WSA Library. This book introduces many paintings, sculptures, works on paper and photography of different artists.

David Anfam, Susan Davidson (2016) Abstract Expressionism, London: Royal Academy of Arts

One of the painting called Jackson Pollock by William S. Lieberman which makes me think of Tim Coppens Fall/Winter 2013, inspired by a painting of Anne-Lise Coste called Spray-painted acrylics. Abstract painting is a way for artists to express emotions with their brushes which has strong subjectivity and perceptual color, and this is the costume designers need.

Jackson Pollock, Number 7, 1952, 1952, enamel and oil on canvas, 53 x 40 inches. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Purchase, Emilio Azcarraga Gift, in honor of William S. Lieberman, 1987.

Ayyy, Which fashion design works are inspired by classic paintings, Available from: https://www.zhihu.com/question/29697750 [Accessed 15 June 2015]

And then I found an article about Abstract Art in The Form of Costumes which wrote by Anomalyville. He explained the ways to express through art, dressing for expression and also showed the ways to show true colors. I agree one sentence of this article ‘Each day when you wake up and put on your clothes, you are expressing a part of your personality.’

Anomalyville, Abstract Art in The Form of Costumes, Available from: http://www.anomalyville.com/abstract-art-in-the-form-of-costumes/ [Accessed 24 August]

As we can see, the existence of various artistic ideas in abstract painting is an important role in promoting the development of fashion design, which promotes the innovation of design concept, design inspiration and design direction in modern fashion design.

Photograph by J. R .Eyerman. The LIFE Picture Collection

I chose an image of an audience in 3D glasses at the premiere screening of Bwana Devil from the book ‘ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM’ which edited by David Anfam, the first full-length 3D film in colour, at the Paramount Theater, Hollywood, 26 November 1952. Everybody looks so happy, but what attracts me most is the laughing woman who is the highlight of this picture.

Then I found a show of Rebecca Minkoff that you need 3D glasses to fully experience these clothes. Models and audience members wore 3D glasses as dim lighting was used at the end of the Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2015 collection show during Fashion Week, Friday, September 5, 2014, in New York.

Image: AP Photo/Jason DeCrow/Associated Press

To further my research, I googled ‘the application of 3D technology in clothing’ and found that The Hong Kong University of science and technology successfully developed the “3D garment design computer simulation system”, through the scanning type data, computer programs to the human body more than thousand parameter data for accurate adjustment, and preview the simulation fitting, to achieve “tailor-made” fitting effect.

Reference and bibliography

[1] David Anfam, Susan Davidson (2016) Abstract Expressionism, London: Royal Academy of Arts

[2]Stephanie Buck, You Need 3D Glasses to Fully Experience These Clothes, Available from: http://mashable.com/2014/09/05/rebecca-minkoff-3d-fashion/#YLFRxdsMMsqX [Accessed 05 September 2014]

[3]Jiayi Long, HKUST 3D simulation test online to buy Shirts more satisfactory, Available from: http://paper.wenweipo.com/2013/05/27/ED1305270002.htm [Accessed 27 May 2013]

1, 2, 3, 4, 5 Chanel SS17  www.vogue.com

Chanel spring 2017

 While looking at Chanel’s spring 2017 ready to wear collection I discovered many inspirational links. The collection is based on intimate technology, pattern and colour.

One image I selected in particular(6) was of Will Smith from fresh prince of bel air dressed in a black suit jacket, gold chain, patterned tank-top and brightly coloured hat.

This image clearly represents the individuality and creativity that he was portraying. His character was known for wearing bold patterns which reflected his personality.

(6) Will Smith Photographer – Chris Haston/NBC Gettyimage.com

The image was not planned as it doesn’t have a backdrop it is a natural photograph in Smith’s working environment along with the blurred hand implying he wasn’t ready for the image to be taken. The image itself consists of soft lighting as it is a dark image which could be because Haston, the photographer, used the lighting already available on the set. Haston has a limited amount of information about him available. IMDb states he was a photographer for NBC for 27 years and for the show ‘Will and Grace’(1998).

The purpose of the picture was to capture and show off the character of Will Smith in the Fresh Prince of Bel air. He was a comical character which you can see in relation to the large gold chain and bow tie worn with the suit jacket. He also wore a brightly coloured hat which infers how relaxed of a person he is because he enjoys himself through expressing his personality through his clothes.

This image has a striking resemblance to an outfit from the collection with the twisted to the side hat and relaxed look of the model on the runway (5).

References

(1, 2, 3, 4, 5) Mower.S (2016) Vogue Available from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/chanel [Accessed 1st November 2017]

(6) Getty image available from http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/pilot-gallery-pictured-will-smith-as-william-will-smith-news-photo/141335245#pilot-gallery-pictured-will-smith-as-william-will-smith-photo-by-picture-id141335245 [Accessed 1st November]

IMDb available from http://www.imdb.com/name/nm3386182/bio?ref_=nm_dyk_trv_sm#trivia [Accessed 1 November 2017]

I’ve chosen to look at Craig Green’s A/W 15 collection, as his garments entail a lot of structure and shape. The actual designs don’t look ovelry complicated but the accessories Green adds make the garments such as: belts, ties, pockets etc.

To get an overview of the collection itself, I’ve decided to also look at some of the earlier work of photographer Nick Knight who directed Green’s first campaign video and compare the two.

In 2011 a short fashion film called ‘dynamic bloom’ was created by combining contemporary dancers and mainly women’s wear. Knight has captured the figures in movement, gliding through the air and forming silhouettes with the deep red sheer fabric which looks like flowers.

4 years later,the campaign in which Green and Knight worked together on ,looking at this image, it reminds me of martial arts because of the pose they’re paused in and the colour palette used. Black is commonly known to suggest fear and death whereas red symbolises strength and passion. Immediately you can see the difference between them, this one includes bolder and more abrupt shapes. Even the use of a plain white background makes everything stand out and look more current and modern in comparison to the dimmed pink backdrop used in 2011.

In conclusion, I think this sums up Green’s style as a whole as all of his collections are very consistent in the sense they’re very uniform and structured but the different colour palettes and materials he explores with makes them slightly different each season.

For my current project I wanted to expand my monochromatic palette into a more colourful range. That is why, I turned to one of my favourite colourful artists and looked at the catalogue for her past exhibition called Give Me Love, that I found on the WSA Library.

Tatehata, A., 2017. Yayoi Kusama: Give Me Love. David Zwirner Books.

This book contained her distinctive style and her mesmerizing patterns whether it is her polka dots or the repetitive eyes in her paintings. With them, the artist “invites the viewer into her world, sharing her inner thoughts” (Tate, 2012, video called “Yayoi Kusama: Obsesionado con los lunares”) and is known for her environmental installations that submerge the spectator into a totally new reality based on her hallucinations and infinity.

Due to my admiration for her style and self-preserving art I kept researching towards a more biographical direction. Apparently, Kusama had had a traumatic childhood that had affected her mental state. However, her constant energy for creating art soon forged her a bright future. In fact, Kusama decided to open a museum in Tokyo for her fellow locals, something that the New York Times captured in one of its articles.

Motoko Rich. 2017. Yayoi Kusama, Queen of Polka Dots, Opens Museum in Tokyo – The New York Times. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/26/arts/design/yayoi-kusama-queen-of-polka-dots-museum-tokyo.html. [Accessed 01 November 2017].

Unsurprisingly, behind such peculiar creations, there is a unique individual. The Japanese artist is not only known for the art that she makes, but for making it part of her lifestyle and wardrobe. With bright orange hair and red lips, the 88-year-old artist has collaborated with brands such as Louis Vuitton and incorporated her style into fashion.

Motoko Rich. 2017. Yayoi Kusama, Queen of Polka Dots, Opens Museum in Tokyo – The New York Times. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/26/arts/design/yayoi-kusama-queen-of-polka-dots-museum-tokyo.html. [Accessed 01 November 2017].

Unknown, (2012), Louis Vuitton- Yayoi Kusama Collection [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/louis-vuitton-unveils-yayoi-kusama-collection [Accessed 1 November 2017].

The advertising for the Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior spring/summer 2017 captures the energy of the whole collection showcasing both the feminine side in the clothing and the tomboy style in the choice of model, Ruth Bell. I love this collection for its use of contrasts such as the detailed embroidered, dark zodiac sign skirt mixed with the simple white t shirt with the graphic text printed onto it, inspired by Linda Nochlin’s fight for feminism, seen in this image. The use of black and white in this advertisement adds to the use of contrasting imagery. The plain white studio background forces the viewer to evaluate the garments and the model without the distractions of a noisy background, where as usually photographers choose to tell a story in their adverts by adding accompanying surroundings which can take away from a designers meaning behind a collection. The use of a diptych in this advert creates a comparison of imagery adding to the viewer’s subconscious view of the collection having a contrast with in every detail. I think that the use of a body shot and a head shot makes the viewer focus in on the smaller details in the full body image as there is not a lot going on in the head shot, it is plain and simple with few details compared to the full body shot of the Dior spring/summer 2017 garment in which the skirt is filled with embroidery and vintage imagery which is mesmerising to explore once you acknowledge it.

Over all you can see most of the inspiration for the collection in this advert. Both the feminine embellishment, constellation and zodiac references and the fencing, sporty, tomboy elements of the collection are shown within the two images with simple taste in the photography allowing the garments to show through in the advert. I love this collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior as it represents a new age of females.

Sofia Coppola, The virgin suicides, Film (1999)

William Shakespeare, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, A 1900 book front cover

Blondie and Debbie Harry (1970’s)

Linda Nochlin, an active feminist (1968)

Vintage star constellations and Zodiac signs

Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior (spring/summer 2017)

http://www.eliesaab.com/en/haute-couture/fw-2017-2018

https://fashioneditorials.com/vogue-uk-freja-beha-erichsen-theo-wenner/
http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/suzycouture-elie-saab-warrior-queens
http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/suzy-on-elie-saab-haute-couture-and-beirut-atelier

http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/freja-beha-erichsen-interview-style-vogue-covers

Elie Sabb is one of the many designers that inspires me in my work. I find her designs so elegant and perfectly detailed that it has me lost for words. to  ove on further I looked at what her previous work was inspired by. by scanning through various blogs in vogue I came across this photogragh of a model named Freja Beha Erichsen by Theo Wenner for Vogue UK November 2017. in this image we see Freja signing for something, what I would suspect being a check to pay for something she bought as in the photo she comes across a wealthy woman. She wears in the photo a glamorous yet elegant all body suit, detailed with thousands of diamonds and diamond earrings to match. I love that in the photo she is so oblivious to everything else around her, she is only focused on the one thing in front of her. in a regular situation this normal but the way she’s dressed makes her seem so sophisticated and important and that she’s above everyone else. I feel that she is a powerful, sexy, upper-class woman whom does not have to worry about the money that she spends. It seems as though the world she lives in could have to boundaries, that she could escape on life to another in a moment. Her outfit in this photo portrays that no one can touch her, that everyone she meets is just a visitor in her world and she will not allow them to stay unless she approves of them. This image links to Elie Sabb’s past collections as his garments are so luxurious and sophisticated that the person that wears them will automatically become the women in the photo.

For my current project, I decided to look into the artwork of Dale Chihuly. When researching the artist, I found this book: The Art of Dale Chihuly. The book visually tells the story of Chihuly’s artwork. Each page has full- scale photographs of his work, which are all photographed against a black background. This background further enhances the vivid colours of glass. The book itself is made from good quality, glossy paper which, further enhances the artwork due to each photographs having a “sheen”.

I further expanded my research on Chihuly by looking at his website. The website has different sections about his life, exhibitions and his work. I particularly like his installation pieces. In my opinion, some of his most successful images of his work have been photographed against a dark background, which further explores and exposes the colours Chihuly has used. I felt confident that his website would not include any biases or non-truthful accounts of Chihuly’s life and work.

Following research through different sources, I found an article based on Chihuly and his artwork. I chose an article written by an American newspaper, The New York Times. I chose this newspaper article as it includes interviews with Jeffery Banks, a former colleague of Chihuly. The article seemed non-bias as it includes conversations with someone who knows Chihuly and how he creates his artwork.

Bibliography

• Burgard, T. A. (2008). The Art of Dale Chihuly. San Francisco: Chronicle Books.
• Installations. (2017). Retrieved November 1, 2017, from www.chihuly.com: https://www.chihuly.com/work/installations
• Johnson, K. (2017, August 21). Who Is Really Making ‘Chihuly Art’? Retrieved November 11, 2017, from www.nytimes.com: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/08/21/arts/design/chihuly-glass-bipolar-court-moi.html

Mood board that inspired Elie Saab’s collections

Jeweled Amour by Rene Habermacher Vogue Japan 2013

Rene Habermacher, photographer, Junko Editor, Rena Semba fashion editor/stylist, vogue Japan

In this image you can see a high-class woman dressed in her wealth eating at the dining table. Her glance is focused away from the camera as if she was looking at another person at the other end of the dining table, perhaps her husband. This photograph was taken just slightly below eye-level so we are looking up at the model. This gives the model more authority to us and a higher status. The photo is in focus so that we can see the detail of the jewels that she wears. The main focal point within this image is her mouth and red lipstick. Her arm acts as a pathway for our eyes to look up to the model’s mouth and see the large shiny flower shaped ring on the model’s middle finger. This image is cropped so that we are able to closely look at the jewels she wears. The cropped image does not let us see her bent arm or what else is on the table in front; this way we are left to our own imaginations of what or who the model is staring at and what else is on the table that could influence her look and posture. I believe this image does conform to the typical stereotype of an upper-class woman from the amount of jewellery and expensive suit she is wearing. However this photo is not realistic as the model is not wearing any clothes underneath her jacket so that the viewer’s attention isn’t distracted away from the pearls around her neck. I believe this image is about the upper-class women in the 90s and the way they have to portray themselves in order to keep their higher status either by what they wear or to be visually appealing to their other half. Rene Habermacher captures the 90’s upper class woman to show off their wealth through jewels and mannerisms to give a sex appeal to the viewer drawing them in to what makes a wealthier woman sexy and successful.