Molly Goddard

Based In: London

With a couple of seasons already produced, Molly Goddard is in the early stages of getting her talent and fashion recognized. In December, She won the British Emerging Talent Award at the 2016 Fashion Awards. Goddard’s Spring 2017 collection was full of dreamy and playful runway looks.

http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/g2933/new-designers-to-know-0913/

 

 

 

 

Molly Goddard’s References for her work.

Grumpy girls at the prom, photograph by Mario Testino.

The image consists of four girls all looking at something to their right, all have very serious expressions considering they are at a prom. Testino is well known for his portrait photography and this image differs in that it focusses on the wide shot of the girls, the informal composition shows the girls sat closely together, their sullen expressions suggest they are unhappy.

Their facial expression could be because they do not have a date for the prom – there could be religious reasons why this may be the case – they may be from an all-girls school. They are all wearing beautiful white soft dresses – suggesting some religious connection?

The photographer is well known for his portraits, including royalty and fashion photography. His work regularly appears in Vogue, he was famous for his informal photographs of Princess Diana – and has continued photographing the royal family in this style ever since.

His photographs of Diana showed her as a happy vivacious person, whereas the reality is she was deeply unhappy. He seems to like to capture a persons mood – in the image of the four girls it might be coincidental that they all looked unhappy at that particular moment.

Pinterest 2017. Grumpy girls at the prom, shot by Mario Testino, a reference image for Molly Goddard AW15. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/215680269631241656/. [Accessed 28 October 2017]

 

Advertisement can be the first contact we can have with a brand that we’ve never known before. Most adverts hope to influence the consumers on what products to buy or inform them about new goods on the market. Therefore, this industry is a constant war to capture the viewer’s attention and to do so companies have to take risks to fulfil their goals.

Duncan Quinn, a high quality brand specialised on men clothing released in December of 2008 an advert that many considered to be disturbing. It featured two main characters, a man and a woman, in a black and white picture. The man located on the top right-hand side is dressed in a suit and poses with an expression of joy and satisfaction. He represents an individual from upper class with high income who depicts the poorest example of mannerisms and gentleman behaviour. He’s holding a tie wrapped around the victim’s lifeless body pulling it hard against him while he looks straight to the recording device. Meanwhile, the woman is lying on a car hood with nothing else than lingerie and her dark hair is lying on a puddle of what I imagine is blood.

The image seems to reveal a crime scene where the damage has already been done. Its almost like the picture is a prize to be kept by the murderer as a reminder of his accomplishments. On the other hand, the fact that the woman is lying defenceless on what seems an expensive car only communicates ideas of male superiority, woman slavery and dependency, as if women were inferior and only to be used as objects for pleasure.

I believe this is not the right way to capture the consumer’s attention, especially if we take steps back in the development of society to promote violence, sexual harassment and gender inequality. However, as unfair as it looks “Nobody counts the number of ads you run; they just remember the impression you make” (William Bernhart, 1911-1982); and without realizing here we are taking about the impact that this commercial had in the society of the time. What about all the other adverts that stayed inside the ethical limits? Who talks about those?

It is quite a delicate situation when a brand decides to take these risks. Whenever a company launches a new campaign they must select their public target and create an advert that they believe will result in higher profit. Nevertheless, it is essential that while doing this, they respect the rest of the possible consumers of the brand. For instance, the woman that will be buying suits for their close male relatives might take into consideration whether to buy from this brand again after seeing such publicity.

In conclusion, it is important for a company to sell themselves differently from the rest and cause an impression. However, I do not agree when they surpass the ethical boundaries to accomplish this. The consequences of this advertisement can be deeply devastating. Our eye gets easily used to seeing situations like this, and the more often we are exposed to these images the more likely events like this will appear to be normal.

 

Bibliography: 

UKEssays. 2017. Ethical issues in advertising. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.ukessays.com/essays/marketing/ethical-issues-in-advertising.php. [Accessed 04 December 2017].

TrendHunter.com. 2017. Disturbing Sexist Ads: Duncan Quinn Suit Campaign Depicts Strangled Woman. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/duncan-quinn-suit-ad-depicting-strangled-woman. [Accessed 04 December 2017].

Advertising Is Good For You. 2017. Duncan Quinn. Suits for men who hate women. – Advertising Is Good For You. [ONLINE] Available at: http://pzrservices.typepad.com/advertisingisgoodforyou/2008/12/duncan-quinn-suits-for-men-who-hate-women.html. [Accessed 04 December 2017].

Kent Spiers. 2011. Student Example. [ONLINE] Available at: http://hcaldwell.typepad.com/files/student-example-1.pdf. [Accessed 4 December 2017].

Venture Harbour. 2017. 32 Great Quotes From Advertising & Marketing Experts. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.ventureharbour.com/great-quotes-advertising-marketing-experts/. [Accessed 04 December 2017].

The Economic Times. 2017. Definition of “Advertising”. [ONLINE] Available at: https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/definition/advertising. [Accessed 4 December 2017].

Text selected: Taste, Fashion and the French Fashion Magazine by Sandra Miller.

 

We all know what a fashion magazine looks like. Pages packed with brands, luxury items and ads with thin figures in designer clothes; things that many seem to think of as unnecessary and unimportant. However, these publications play a fundamental role as trendsetters and act as a examples of “good taste”.

Magazines emerged in 1672 around the Age of Reason or also called the Enlightenment. This movement believed that reason provided the only way for humanity to evolve and thereupon, magazines were influenced by it as well. In fact, time after they originated, these publications started featuring both fashion and “taste”. This so-called “taste” came to life to describe a reality influenced by the judgement of the individual and its cultural, economic and political surrounding, something that magazines seize to effectively communicate visually era after era.

For these philosophers of the Enlightenment, “taste” was a way of setting a base for all judgement of any aesthetic experiences. The purpose of it was being able to express individual thoughts in a way that they could be understood universally. In other words, establish what meant the idea of “disliking” or “liking” a work of art. However, although everyone can determine their own idea of beauty, these philosophers considered that only those qualified could distinguish between “good and bad taste”.

In my point of view, I completely agree with what Sandra Miller describes in the text. For instance, someone’s background, their traditions and culture will affect their appreciation towards art. However, I disagree with the idea of an existing “bad taste”. To me all subjective matters are far too attached with someone’s personality and what they are used to see. What good taste might be considered in the Western world will be completely different in an African or Indian society. For this reason, I consider “bad taste” to be only possible when it doesn’t adapt itself to your style or your individuality.

I do believe that with the high impact of adverts we receive every day, it is very easy to get influenced by trends and mimic these in our outfits, making our personality almost invisible through our outer appearance. However, it is time to take advantage of the broad market offer and push our taste to the surface. Taste is something to embrace and never to be ashamed of.

 

 

Bibliography: 

HISTORY.com. 2017. Enlightenment – Facts & Summary – HISTORY.com. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.history.com/topics/enlightenment. [Accessed 01 December 2017].

2017. Why Fashion Magazines Matter – The Atlantic. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2015/02/why-fashion-magazines-matter/385457/. [Accessed 01 December 2017].

Already Pretty | Where style meets body image. 2017. What is Taste? – Already Pretty | Where style meets body image. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.alreadypretty.com/what-is-taste/. [Accessed 01 December 2017].

Fashion: A look at Style vs Taste | Smart Creative Women. 2017. Fashion: A look at Style vs Taste | Smart Creative Women. [ONLINE] Available at: http://smartcreativewomen.com/fashion-a-look-at-style-vs-taste/. [Accessed 03 December 2017].

HuffPost. 2017. What Is Fashion Sense and Why Don’t I Have Any? | HuffPost. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.huffingtonpost.com/taylor-jackson-/what-is-fashion-sense-and_b_9276598.html. [Accessed 03 December 2017].

The Devil Wears Prada, 2006. [DVD] David Frankel, United States: 20th Century Fox.

 

In ‘Fashion as Communication’, Bernard explores the ambivalent status of fashion, drawing on a range of ideas. Chapter one explains how social and cultural groups in western capitalist societies are affirmed by fashionable clothing which connotates power and status; and furthermore the contrast of this with primitive societies where fashion is used so differently as a means of identifying with eachother and one’s culture. The important debate on the triviality of fashion, is supported by interesting concepts, for example how fashion gives the ‘neutral’ and pure human body, meaning; and contrastingly, how this can make people respond how they should not by presenting the body as something that it is not. The writer explains how fashion is therefore a meeting point within the realms of psychology, sociology, economics, anthropology and history, forming the ties on a culture as a base for stabilising economy.

Regarding this debate, reading from ‘Fashion Media’ about the role of fashion magazines, Miller explains ‘the magazines’ distinguished readership were told how to dress, how to furnish their elegant interiors and how to entertain’. This realises how fashion is not limited to the way we dress, but forms the basis of our social society. Ideas of class and power communicated by fashion through taste, decoration and luxury. Furthermore, when speaking with friends, it was suggested that because of the visual age we now live in, fashion is a way for people ‘to express themselves instantly’, and this I agree with especially as there are so many accessible blogs which combine fashion with lifestyle and interior decoration.

Although Bernard presents us with a plethora of theories to ponder, I feel that some of these are notably less relevant; particularly the statement that fashion is for women and is ‘sublime and childlike’. I think Bernard failed to explain how this came about by noting how the expectations of women in the past was to be seen and not heard, therefore leaving them with only one way of expressing themselves which was through dress. Bernard also says ‘genius is found more often in the realms of art than design’, which i believe is untrue. It is fair to say, that fashion is an art form which is limited to, yet equally inspired by the forms of the pure and natural human form. It would be unfair to say that a painting holds a stronger and more ‘gutsy’ concept than a garment design because I feel that it is the designer and artist who should be contemplated along with their ideas and expression, not the products of their creativity.

Fashion as Communication’ to me, is an interesting collection of ideas and theories of the role of fashion. However I feel that the writer has perhaps unfairly filtered his collection of concepts, failing to address the debate with appropriate and more modern fundamental ideas even with the book being published not long ago. Of course, much like fashion itself, the ideas within this book are down to interpretation and each reader will gather from the text differently.

References:

Bartlett, Djurdja and Cole, Shaun and Rocamora, Agnes (21st November 2013) Fashion Media: Past and Present, Bloomsbury Academic, London/New York, ISBN 978-0-8578-5307-3.30

Barnard, Malcolm (2002) Fashion as Communication,
London: Routledge

Throughout the duration of the ‘Research and Communication Skills’ I have aimed to become more diligent to maintain a constructed and accurate timetable to complete each task; some tasks have been more engaging than others. However, they have all been very beneficial and I feel as though I have learnt valuable skills, which will aid me in the future.

The combination of both the Communication project and the portfolio has been a nice balance and has influenced my work throughout the continuing fashion-based projects. It has also made me reconsider how I view fashion. Particularly the latest task, the involvement of ‘Ethical Issues’ has transformed the depiction of women and how the world sees them as a sexual conquest and nothing more than a glass frame. This has made me more aware of the issues that we face as a generation and society, so perverse by sexual desires that there is no modesty.

Other involvements which are more analytical such as Harvard referencing have contributed to my other projects and have encouraged referencing throughout my sketchbooks and research files. Learning to range my sources of research was very important as usually I would dedicate my findings to the Internet, although discovering the use of the library and how important it is to find useful facts that are professionally checked and valid was very difficult online in comparison.

Another form of research which I have realised is difficult to work with is primary research, there is a noticeable lack within my work and I have tried to act on this and involve much more through visiting local areas. I intend to research more, I feel that the reason I cannot develop further in many of my projects is because of the lack of this, there is limited first-hand research. To resolve this, I could take photographs and even complete basic drawing.

The task of ‘Reflective Writing in Fashion and Textiles’ was surprisingly easy to write about as usually I have trouble reading books and incorporating several quotes in any written essay. However, in reflection through the preparation that went beforehand with many of the other essays I found the work easier. In some way they were like a warm up to the later essays which I have written.

The most challenging task for me was the ‘Visual Research’, I constantly feared that I wasn’t doing the task correctly by selecting Vincent van Gough one of the artists from my mood board. My main concerns were whether I had written enough or not; word counts slowly became an obsession which has gradually made me work lack in quality. In many ways the essay became almost a biography of Van Gough’s life. Although I believe that this has slowly sorted itself within the work.

The modules have been very beneficial and have supported my additional work outside the classes. I found every element enjoyable and would recommend continuing this through to the future years of this course – learning Harvard Referencing has been particularly useful, and I eagerly look forward to continuing this in the following semester.

 

Throughout this module I’ve found I’ve been challenged in a way I never have before as most of the tasks were topics that I have never really touched before. I felt very engaged in the lectures and they were very beneficial in order to complete the tasks set. I found some tasks harder than others but overall, they were necessary to expand my knowledge in another aspect of fashion.

All the tasks set required the appropriate research to back up my own opinions. I found myself using the internet more than I should have done as it’s a convenient source to go to when completing work at home. However, I did use the library to my advantage as it’s the most reliable source of information. At times I found that the library is a longer process to find the right information but when you finally get there in the end it is well worth the time you spend looking for your information. As you use the library more often you will find that when find your research the process gets easier as you know your way around.

When it came to the time to complete another task I found myself always stuck at the start but would then find my flow once I would begin. I would always find the tasks I would find raising my interest easier to write about. For instance, when it came to write about the task on Ethics, I found it a lot easier to give my own opinion on the topic and I found it easier to back them up as it is a popular matter of interest. I did however use the internet for this topic but in future I would rather use the books from the library to make it easier for myself and to have more reliable resource to quote from.

In future it will be easier for myself to complete the tasks in the week they are set, rather than avoiding them so it will give me time to edit if needed and the information from the lecture will still be fresh in my mind. I would also like to start writing a small plan of what I will write about before starting to avoid my paragraphs being disproportioned and going over the word limit. Hopefully this will teach me to break down my paragraphs in a more organised way to avoid waffling.

Overall, I find that the tasks have improved my knowledge on certain topics that I have never spoken about. They have shown me how important it is to use the information you find to your advantage as it can completely change your starting opinion about the topic and take in mind other opinions that can make you look at the topic in a new light.