Author Archives: Amy Williams

Task 11&12 Reflective Writing

I have found this module over all very useful, successful and not as daunting as I first anticipated. After taking a year out of education, I was pretty anxious and nervous about returning to the written communication. However, looking back now I shouldn’t have been so worried. I have found most tasks rewarding and they have challenged me, which is exactly what I wanted to get from this.

Throughout this module we have been expected to use many different sources to help with our tasks which I have found very beneficial and mind opening. I enjoyed task 1&2 as I feel it was a great way to settle back into writing. I enjoyed searching through the extensive WSA library for books and subject areas which interest and inspire me. It was so refreshing to use physical sources throughout the module to find information from as a starting point instead of secondary online research, which is my comfort zone. From this, I was then happy to return back to online research to continue with my new findings. What I especially enjoyed about this task is where it took me to last. I found a fascinating article on the BBC website, an archive I very rarely visit and use, which I thoroughly enjoyed learning about and then reflecting on in my own writing. From this task, I have defiantly learnt that the library is a fantastic place and most of the time much more straightforward than using the internet to find information.

This module has helped me more than I had expected in my studio work. When its time to research new ideas, the first place I now visit first is the Library as I now understand and appreciate how fantastic and important it is. The use of Webcat, as I’ve learnt from this module, is very useful for narrowing down broad searches to find specific books.  In the future I will defiantly use the library and Webcat more throughout my research.

One area I did find challenging was the word counts. For most tasks I found that I was always writing too much and in task 7&8 this was a particular problem for me. Although at first I struggled a lot with reading and anaylsing the text, after much planning and thought, I realised  I had so much to talk about. Once I had written out my main points, I then found it hard to narrow my writing down to the 500max word count. However, eventually after proof-reading many times, I did successfully get it under the word count. From this experience I have learnt that it isn’t the quantity of work written but instead is the quality. For this task, I feel I did improved the quality of my writing from the first draft. Another aspect of this task, and module, I struggled with was reflecting on others work and using them to explain my points. I still don’t feel like I have perfected this area of my writing, and I would still like to be educated and get more support in this area throughout the rest of the modules.

Another area I need to improve on is my time management. Although never put aside for weeks, I confess I have been leaving each task until the night before the lecture. However, for task 3&4 I settled down to complete this task the same day it was given. I found it very rewarding and relief knowing I didn’t have to worry about getting it completed the rest of the week. This is something I would like to get in a habit of doing as its a relief once it’s completed and I am then able to focus on my studio work until the following RCS lecture.

In reflection, I have found this module useful and beneficial. The module hasn’t been as daunting as I initially thought and on reflection I believe my writing has become stronger as I have been encouraged to different ways of thinking and gathering information. I will defiantly take what I have learnt in this module forward in my studies.

Task 9&10 Ethical Issues in Fashion

For this task we had to choose from two erotic advertising images for two different fashion companies. From the two, Duncan Quinn’s advertisement of a young lady sprawled over the car bonnet caught my attention. Duncan Quinn is a bespoke men’s tailoring company, but I would have never known this from the advertisement presented before us.

The man in the advertisement is using his high end, bespoke tailored tie as a leash for the young ladies neck while he has a smug look on his face, implying that he is enjoying the act and dominance he has over her. Her young, idealistic body, wearing nothing but lacey underwear, sprawled out over the car dehumanizes her, making her seem more like a sex toy. This adds to his sexual desires and fantasy as he drags her across the bonnet. She is also young of age, with a great figure, which adds further to the sexual fantasies and appeal of the male. The way she is also looking up at him suggests that she is looking at him to stop, which makes him seem very important. With the male smirking and loosing gripping the tie suggests strong dominance over the young lady. This adds to the playfulness and arousing feelings the photographer is trying to portray; trying to get the male audience to imagine what wearing a suit from Duncan Quinn will do to a lady.

From researching Duncan Quinn, it is clear that he enjoys the finer things in life, “He’s also been known to throw the occasional party, indulge in the odd cheeky lunch, drive too fast and enjoy life just a little too much in the company of his friends” taken from his website bio. From this, I have built up an image in my head of what Duncan would be like, and it links very well into the imagery in this advertisement…a womanizer! This is clearly portrayed in the advert. The use of a classic car which the young girl is sprawled across, the bespoke tailored suit, and the manner in which the male is presenting himself with his stance, all implies that he likes the dominance, power and finer things life has to bring. The whole image of the Duncan Quinn label, comes across this way too. Lots of their images are of wealthy looking men, in front of nice cars while everyone walks past in ore of what this man has; making them desirable. This is also what I believe the advert is trying to portray to male audience. If you dress in Duncan Quinn’s suits, you’ll have the dominance, sexual power and attention of women and all fantasies will come true.

Andrea Dworkin wrote, “Any violation of a woman’s body can become sex for men; this is the essential truth of pornography.” And this is true for this advertisement, the use of the idealistic woman’s body over a car controlled from her neck, is seen in a sexual light for some men. It implies that it is masculine and they should have sexual power over vulnerable woman, just like it’s seen in this advertisement.

Bibliography:

  1. http://duncanquinn.com/bespoke

Task 7&8 Reflective Writing in Fashion and Textiles

For this task I’ve chosen to reflect on the article “Fashion as Communication” by Malcolm Barnard. The article is about how the word ‘Fashion’ varies by definition, how the understanding of ‘fashion’ societies can influence the movement of fashion and how ‘fashion’ has developed or remained traditional dependent on the cultures or societies.

The article states the varied definitions for ‘fashion’. Starting with the original meaning from the Oxford English Dictionary, it says fashion is “an activity and something one did, perhaps, when fashion is now something one wears”  and confirms this as a noun and a verb, fashion is both an object and an activity. It then discusses that Polhemus and Proctor believe within western societies, ‘fashion’ is used more often in the terms adornment, style and dress (Polheums and Proctor 1978:9) relating more to how clothing can look, decorate or enhance the human body. Here, I have come to the conclusion that ‘fashion’ is actually components of all these terms and definitions together; but not necessarily together as one as they can easily contradict one another. For example, the article goes on to explain in the eyes of Wittgenstein (Wittgenstein 1958: §§66-7) clothing is decorative but isn’t always fashionable and fashion is adornment but isn’t necessarily clothing or an accessory. The last point continues on this, explaining that “while all fashion is in style, not all fashion is an item of dress” and that “some fashion involves changing the colour or shape of the body”.

The article continues to discuss how fashion can be anti-fashion. For example, Simmel (1971) explains that there are two social tendencies within making fashion grow and develop. For fashion to work, people need to be both surrounded and kept individual from society. Being surrounded by society allows ideas and concepts to grow, but individualism also allows people to tailor the “fashion” to their own unique styles and interests. This is then a catalyst for fashion to grow and expand. Simple and complex societies show these exact ideas, by breaking society into groups, people in complex societies can express their individualism and develop their own identity. Whereas in simple societies, styles and identities get trapped, making it harder to develop. This results in anti-fashion. Simmel’s mentions, and I agree, “it is unlikely that anything like society could exist if oneof these forces were absent”.

FlĂźgel then explores the idea of fixed costumes and modish costumes. In summary, Fixed costumes are associated with a particular place which allows traditional, non-fashion and cultured dress to be worn. These won’t change much over time but varies by location. In contrast, modish costumes are fashion orientated and more in the western world. The fashion trends occur all over the western world at one time but very rapidly change in time as styles are quickly replaced by another (FlĂźgel 1930: 129-30). Polhemus and Proctor identify fixed dress with anti-fashion, much like the Queens Coronation gown and the traditional values involved. They compare modish dress with fashion such as the Dior’s Tulip dress which has developed every season since.

To conclude, the meaning of fashion to me is clear. It is very much about using fashion to show case your identity and personality. It’s important to surround yourself with innovative ideas from the “simple societies” and “modish costumes” but is also important to allow own personal identities and uniqueness to shine though mundane styles in order to develop your personal identity further.

Bibliography:

  1. Malcolm Barnard, Fashion as Communication

Task 5&6 Visual Research

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A Mood board containing images which Sarah Burton was inspired by for the S/S 2017 collection on the Shetland Islands, Scotland.

shetland lace         shetland lace

fiddlesticksknitting.com                               www.alexandermcqueen.com

This is an image of Shetland Gossamer Lace, which Sarah has used throughout her S/S 2017 collection (as seen in the image above). I have chosen to review this image and material as Sarah uses it a lot throughout the collection. As it is a native fabric from the Shetland Island, I only found it fitting to explore it.

The Shetland lace fits her collection design’s very well; it enhances the gothic, punk theme whilst mixing with the traditional Shetland Island influences. In the collection, Sarah uses the Shetland lace as the base to her indiginous flora and fauna embellishments, creating a very pretty and classic look. She also delicately frays the edges of the lace dresses, which enhances the punk look she is creating.

Shetland Lace is made from the wool around the neck of the sheep. It is the finest part of the sheep’s body. Using tools, it is removed and then spun finely to create the gossamer fine yarn. To create the lace fabric, the fine yarn is then doubled up on the steel knitting needle to give the fabric strength. Using the fine yarn and needle, intricate patterns called Horseshoe, Cat’s Paw, Bird’s Eye and Print of the Wave are created. These lace patterns are very delicate and beautiful looking and were worn by crofters’ daughters and royalty alike. This creates the royal look to the garments in Sarah’s collection.

Bibliography: 

  1. fiddlesticksknitting.com
  2.  www.alexandermcqueen.com

Task 3&4 Academic Integrity and Plagiarism

Leitner, Christina (2005) Paper Textiles. London: A&C Black.

I found this book by Christina Leitner in the WSA Library. I enjoy manipulating lots of different materials, so I though this book would be interesting to explore. Throughout the book it covers lots of different ways of working with paper yarns; such as knotting, crochet, braiding and twisting along with the future of paper yarns.

Dallas Museum of Art (2017) Iris Van Herpen: Transforming fashion. Available from https://www.dma.org/art/exhibitions/iris-van-herpen-transforming-fashion#summary (Assessed 19th October 2017)

After finding the book on paper textiles, I then wanted to find an exhibition on similar concepts and the future of manipulating fabrics. From previous research, I remembered Iris Van Herpen is very futuristic and creates stunning garments using a whole range of different craftsmanship and manipulation processes such as laser cutting and 3D printing. After searching for exhibitions on her, a Google search took me the “Dazed Magazine” which mentioned she has exhibited in the Dallas Museum of Art.

The museum webpage touches on how her experimental and futuristic processes are transforming the fashion industry and is becoming a pioneering voice for the whole industry. The exhibition says, “She is known for her willingness to experiment—exploring new fabrics created manipulating iron filings in resin, incorporating unexpected materials ranging from umbrella tines to magnets, and pushing the boundaries of technologies such as 3-D printing” which enhances on the fact she is innovative and is completely transforming the future of fashion.

task 3+4 image 3.jpg

Shavin, Naomi (2016) Iris Van Herpen is revolutionizing the Look and Tech of Fashion. 2nd May 2006. Online report at Smithsonian.com https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/iris-van-herpen-revolutionizing-look-and-tech-fashion-180958969/?utm_source=facebook.com&amp%3Bno-ist=

After reading how the Dallas Museum of Art believe that Iris Van Herpen is transforming fashion; I found this online report about how Naomi Shavin believes the same. On Smithsonian.com, Naomi talks about how her technical processes and futuristic designs are revolutionary; and are shown through their silhouettes, finest details and innovative materials.

Bibliography:

  1. Paper Textiles, Christina Leitner
  2. https://www.dma.org/art/exhibitions/iris-van-herpen-transforming-fashion#summary
  3. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/iris-van-herpen-revolutionizing-look-and-tech-fashion-180958969/?utm_source=facebook.com&amp%3Bno-ist=

Task 1&2 Online Resources

kathy

Photographed image of Kathy Macleod’s “That’s What She Said” series

Photographer Unknown

Thailand Eye, Contemporary Thailand Art

This image is of Kathy MacLeod’s “That’s What She Said” series about the contemporary life in busy Bangkok. I found Kathy MacLeod in the book “Thailand Eye, Contemporary Thailand Art” in the WSA library. I was immediately drawn to the bold drawings, fine details and intriguing stories captured in the drawings. The statement colours and the denseness of the illustrations capture the chaos and vibrancy of Bangkok. She has realistically recreated the true chaotic sense of Bangkok through the smallest of details including each building’s name and the busy market stalls and side streets packed with hundreds of people. I was intrigued by the birds-eye view of the streets as it creates an interesting perspective whilst still capturing the madness of Bangkok. Both drawings are of the busiest tourist locations in Bangkok, Khao San Road and Chinatown, highlighting she wanted to focus on their vibrancy and energy, showing Bangkok in its truest, busiest light.

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New York City Map by Ruben Marroquin

Embroidery and collage collaboration with Liz Squillace.

Taken from https://rubenmarroquin.squarespace.com

Photograph taken by Unknown

From the series of drawings by Kathy MacLeon, I then went on to try and find a textile piece of a map of Bangkok through a Google search. However, this was proven tricky. Eventually I found this embroidered and collaged piece by Ruben Marroquin. Even though it’s a map of New York City, the same theme of vibrancy and energy of the city applies. Ruben has used embroidery and collage to capture the boldness of the city and to tell its story. The use of collage shows the location of landmarks and the blocks of colour of the threads show the different districts in New York City. This textile piece has been stitched onto a tourist map of Manhattan. The scatty stitching on top of the plain tourist map, enhances the busy and manic sense of the city; much like use of the bold colours in Kathy MacLeon’s drawings.

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photograph and article taken/written by Alan Russell

Found at http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-26887276

Map of Bristol created by Gareth Wood

After searching the V&A and the Tate website’s to find similar work styles to Kathy and Ruben’s work, I decided to search on a different archive. On the BBC website I searched for ‘map of cities’ which took me to Gareth Woods story of creating a map of Bristol. Similar to both Kathy and Ruben’s work, Gareth includes high amounts of details in his map to show his most memorable and important areas of the city. The article pointed out the maps are not a perfect copy of the city, but instead are a personal account including Gareth’s most important landmarks along with others.

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Photographs and article taken/written by Alan Russell

Found at http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-26887276

Map of Bristol created by Gareth Wood

Bibliography: 

  1. Thailand Eye, Contemporary Thailand Art
  2. https://rubenmarroquin.squarespace.com
  3. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-26887276