Moodboard of References used by Hellen Van Rees, Eleanor Swan, 2017
Photograph of Dorothy McGowan modelling Chanel in Paris, France, Vogue 1960, Photographer William Klein
This photograph by William Klein depicts former model and actress, Dorothea McGowan, wearing a tweed suit by Chanel. The quintessential white Chanel jacket, wrap-over pencil skirt and hat (with black braid and Chanel buttons) were featured in Vogue in1960, six years after her revolutionary suit collection was first released. This medium shot effectively highlights the fashionable Chanel suit as the focus of the composition whilst subtly juxtaposing the banks of the Seine in Paris, France. Klein captures McGowan as if in motion, presenting her as a busy, independent and modern woman with a purpose, thus reflecting Chanel’s aspiration to liberate women and enable them “to move with ease” (Alexander, 2013).
Although initially disregarded by the French press because of “alleged links to the Nazis” (Nelson Best, 2017), Chanel’s controversial 1954 collection was embraced by the United States as “more than a style; a revolution” (according to the popular American magazine, Life (Chanel, 2012)). At the time the fashion industry was “desperately struggling for modernity” (Chanel, 2012). It had become dominated by male designers creating flamboyant, feminine styles with little consideration for functionality. Chanel’s iconic military-inspired suit revolutionised this 1950’s trend for wasp-waists, balconette necklines and froufrou with a stark, almost masculine “nonchalant elegance” (Chanel, 2012). It was designed for utility, allowing freedom for movement with functional pockets and working button-holes (which were unique at the time).
The classic colour palette of this outfit reflects Gabrielle Chanel’s preference for black and white which was partly influenced by her childhood in the Aubazine Abbey Orphanage. The “Romanesque purity of religious garments” and the “monastic rigour” (Chanel, 2012) in this environment are clearly referenced in the austere and minimal aesthetic of Chanel’s designs. Here the predominant choice of white tweed visually contrasts with Chanel’s original 1926 ‘Little Black Dress’ which famously re-invented black, detaching it from its formal reservation for servants’ uniform and mourning dress.
In summation, Chanel’s revolutionary suit has been a timeless classic since its conception and is still today at the “cornerstone of contemporary fashion” (Karl Lagerfeld, 2012).
References:
Alexander, E. (2013) Vogue.co.uk: Coco And Her Little Chanel Jacket. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/coco-chanel-chanel-jacket-story-film [Accessed 28 October 2017].
Anon. (2012) Inside Chanel: The Jacket – Inside CHANEL. Available from: http://inside.chanel.com/en/jacket/video [Accessed 28 October 2017].
Anon. (2012) Inside Chanel: THE COLORS OF CHANEL – Inside CHANEL. Available from: http://inside.chanel.com/en/colors-of-chanel [Accessed 28 October 2017].
Anon. (2014) Littleblackdress.co.uk: Chanel challenges the designs of Christian Dior | Little Black Dress. Available from: https://www.littleblackdress.co.uk/life-of-chanel/chanel-v-christian-dior.html [Accessed 28 October 2017].
Anon. (2017) Tourismelimousin.com: Chanel, Correzian inspired elegance. Available from: http://www.tourismelimousin.com/en/Visionneuse2/Limousin-the-dawning-of-luxury/Chanel-Correzian-inspired-elegance [Accessed 29 October 2017].
Foreman, K. (2014) Bbc.co.uk: The Little Black Dress: Never out of style. Available from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/culture/story/20131209-the-dress-thats-always-in-style [Accessed 27 October 2017].
Harper’s Bazaar Staff (2013) Harper’s BAZAAR: The Real Polly Maggoo. Available from: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/g2739/dororthy-mcgowan-profile-0613/?slide=1 [Accessed 29 October 2017].
Klein, W. (2008) YouTube: Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? (Opening Scene). Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8x40g8bPyg [Accessed 29 October 2017].
Moura, G. (2014) Elementsofcinema.com: SHOT SIZES: Telling What They See. Available from: http://www.elementsofcinema.com/cinematography/framing-shot-sizes/ [Accessed 29 October 2017].
Nelson Best, K. (2017) Google Books: The History of Fashion Journalism. Available from: https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=6L9NDQAAQBAJ&pg=PT142&lpg=PT142&dq=chanel+1954+french+press+information&source=bl&ots=VPDpxrvqva&sig=0XcHE2aSXo67kQukFrAS15YNfw0&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjR5d2_lZbXAhWmL8AKHdUcBY0Q6AEIWTAM#v=onepage&q=chanel%201954%20french%20press%20information&f=false [Accessed 28 October 2017].